Thinking of bidding?
Audi Quattro (1980 to 1991)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The original Audi Quattro (1980 to 1991), known to fans as the Ur-Quattro, brought turbocharged four-wheel drive to the road and to world rallying. Crash damage, rust, tired turbos and scarce trim are the main risks, and the WR, MB and RR versions differ more than they look.
At a glance
- Years
- 1980 to 1991 (shown at Geneva in March 1980, first cars in showrooms from November 1980; right-hand drive UK cars from late 1982; MB engine from late 1987; RR 20-valve from 1989; production ended 1991)
- Body styles
- two-door coupe
- Engines
- Audi turbocharged inline five-cylinder: 2144cc 10-valve (WR), 2226cc 10-valve (MB), 2226cc 20-valve twin-cam (RR)
- Built in
- Ingolstadt, Germany, in a separate assembly hall from mainstream Audi production
Why people buy one
- The car that put permanent four-wheel drive into a road-going performance coupe and changed world rallying.
- The turbocharged five-cylinder has a distinctive sound and is long-lived when serviced properly.
- A clear choice of three engines: the original WR, the larger MB, and the 20-valve RR, generally regarded as the most refined and reliable.
- The UK was the biggest export market, with about 2,700 cars sold here, so right-hand drive examples do come up.
- A large, long-running owners' club with strong technical knowledge.
What to weigh up
- Many cars have been crashed and repaired, sometimes badly, and rear-end damage is common.
- Early cars had limited rust protection; galvanising arrived from 1985, though sources differ on how much of the body was treated, and it does not stop rot or hide accident repairs.
- Some parts are no longer available from Audi, including wings, bonnets, electric window motors, ABS sensors and trim.
- The gearbox is heavy and slow, synchromesh wears, and gearbox rebuilds are costly.
- Many cars have been tuned or modified, so check that the VIN, engine and specification match a genuine turbocharged Quattro of the claimed type.
- Early UK cars were left-hand drive only; right-hand drive arrived in late 1982.
Where they rust
- Rear wheelarches and the lower rear wings, especially on pre-1985 cars.
- Front wheelarches, front wings and, on later cars, the wing seams.
- Inner and outer sills.
- Door bottoms and door edges.
- Floorpan and boot floor, including the spare wheel well.
- Rear panel and the seam around it, plus the rear light unit seals, where poor accident repairs show.
- Windscreen surround and bulkhead.
- Suspension mounting points and the front and rear subframes.
- The steel bootlid on cars before about 1987 (later cars have a plastic one).
Mechanical weak spots
- Engine: the five-cylinder becomes smoky and noisy with age; a ticking manifold when cold, often linked to a failed engine mount, means a cracked exhaust manifold.
- Turbo: blue smoke means oil passing worn seals; the MB is reported to be more prone because its turbo lacks the water cooling of later units.
- Cam belt: check when it was last changed, as neglect risks serious engine damage.
- Drivetrain: early cars have driver-operated locking centre and rear differentials that can seize from disuse; a Torsen centre differential replaced the lockable centre unit from late 1987. Rear differential seals leak and running low on oil destroys it.
- Brakes: the system uses a hydraulic accumulator rather than a conventional servo, which needs checking; calipers and handbrake mechanisms seize, and ABS sensors are no longer available new.
- Suspension: worn bushes, wishbones and tired dampers are common; later cars can crack at the rear subframe.
- Electrics: the digital dashboard (from 1983 to 1984 depending on source), electric windows and older wiring can all give trouble; the fuel tank can leak at its seam when full.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Check the VIN plate and stamped chassis number against the V5C, confirm the engine type matches the claimed WR, MB or RR, and ask the owners' club to check the car's identity before bidding.
- Look at the rear badging and details: WR cars have a stick-on "quattro" decal, MB cars chrome Audi lettering and the rings, and RR cars the chrome rings only.
- Look for the original build stickers in the front end and bootlid areas, and check panel gaps, rear panel seams and light unit seals for signs of accident repair.
- Lift the carpets and boot floor covering and use a torch on the sills, rear arches, floors and subframes for rust, filler or fresh underseal.
- Open the bonnet and look for oil leaks, turbo oil around the manifold and evidence of non-standard tuning; if staff start the car, listen for manifold ticking and watch for blue smoke, but do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Mechanical parts are generally available, and Audi's heritage parts operation still supplies some items such as exhaust manifolds. Body panels, trim, window motors and ABS sensors are scarce and often only available used. The quattro Owners Club, founded in 1990, is the best source of technical advice and identity checks.
Seen on Bangers & Cash
- Audi Quattro (Bangers & Cash series 5, episode 2, First shown January 2022)
- Quattro (Bangers & Cash series 9, episode 5, First shown March 2024)
- 1990 Audi Quattro (Bangers & Cash series 10, episode 12, First shown October 2024)
- Audi Quattro (Bangers & Cash series 14, episode 10, First shown September 2026 on U&Yesterday)
Sources
- Audi Quattro buyer's guide (Classics World), 21 June 2024
- Used Audi Quattro Mk1 (1980 to 1991) buyer's guide (Auto Express), 30 August 2026
- Audi Quattro buyer's guide (Goodwood Classic Solutions), 24 July 2024
- Audi Quattro (1981 to 1990) used car review (RAC), 4 October 2006
- The first-ever quattro (Audi MediaCenter), accessed 14 October 2026
- About us (quattro Owners Club), accessed 14 October 2026
An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.