Bangers & Cash: December 2026 sale
Mathewsons car auction, December 2026: An independent review of every car
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
Part of our Bangers & Cash guide.
Last updated · 46 vehicles
Quick answers
- When is the Mathewsons December 2026 auction?
- Wednesday 2 to Friday 4 December 2026 at the Pickering saleroom, lots 1 to 900 across three days, from 10am.
- When can I view the cars?
- Wednesday 25 November to Tuesday 1 December 2026; Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 12 noon, closed Sunday.
- What cars are in the December sale?
- 46 vehicles so far: 24 classic cars, 14 modern classics, 7 motorcycles and scooters and 1 tractor. They include a Jaguar E-Type, Daimler SP250, Lotus Esprit Turbo, Jaguar XJ-S, Porsche 944, MG TD, Rover P5B Coupé and Mini Coopers. Mathewsons add lots until the sale.
- Is this guide connected to Mathewsons?
- No. This guide is independent of Mathewsons, and every lot links to Mathewsons' official listing.
Dates, viewing rules and travel: December 2026 sale preview · Catalogue release and how to read it: Mathewsons auction catalogue
Recently added lots
- Lot 2: 1970 Jaguar E-Type
- Lot 4: 1927 Chevrolet Capitol race replica
- Lot 8: 1999 Ford Fiesta Zetec
- Lot 12: 1988 Ford Escort Ghia
- Lot 14: 1970 Morris 1800
- Lot 16: 1973 Honda C90
- Lot 18: 1978 Volkswagen 1200 Beetle
- Lot 20: 1997 Ducati 900SS
And 38 more added in the last seven days, listed below.
Search the cars in the December 2026 sale
Classic cars in the December sale (24)
Lot 2
1970 Jaguar E-Type
Why it matters: It is one of the best known British cars of its era, and a well sorted E-Type remains fast and comfortable on modern roads.
Check first
- Record the chassis, engine, gearbox and body numbers. Cylinder head colour on its own proves nothing about whether engine and chassis belong together.
- A Heritage Certificate from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust records the car's original colour and trim, build and dispatch dates and original destination. It is the best way to confirm that a car was built as a left-hand-drive US car and in what specification.
- For a US import, ask for the US title, the shipping bill of lading and the NOVA confirmation. HMRC must be notified within 14 days of arrival and DVLA will not register the car until that is done. DVLA keeps the original foreign registration document.
Lot 4
1927 Chevrolet Capitol race replica
Why it matters: The 1927 Chevrolet Capitol was the model that took Chevrolet past Ford in American sales that year; this car is catalogued as a race replica, not a factory racer.
Check first
- Find the chassis plate and engine number and photograph both. Owners' club advice explains that the engine block carries a small casting date code near the distributor (month, day and final year digit), which helps confirm a 1927 block.
- Ask whether the car has ever been registered in the UK. If it has a V5C, check that the chassis number and description match what is in front of you, including body type.
- For an import, ask for the NOVA confirmation. HMRC must be told about an imported vehicle within 14 days of arrival, and DVLA will not register it until that is done. Foreign titles or registration documents are normally kept by DVLA as dating evidence.
Lot 14
1970 Morris 1800
Why it matters: The BMC 1800, launched in 1964, used Alec Issigonis's front-wheel-drive layout with Hydrolastic suspension.
Check first
- Because there is no front subframe, rot in the structure cannot be solved by bolting on new parts.
- The front valance contains a structural crossmember and must be examined closely.
- Check both inner and outer sills, and be wary of new outer sills simply welded over rotten inners; genuine sills include a section that tucks behind the front wing, which pattern parts lack.
Lot 18
1978 Volkswagen 1200 Beetle
Why it matters: Simple air-cooled engine with no radiator, water pump or coolant to leak, and very little that a home mechanic cannot reach.
Check first
- The body bolts to a separate platform chassis, so a rotten floor can be replaced, but the sills and heater channels are the critical area.
- Ask for the engine to be started from cold and watch the exhaust.
- Ask whether the car jumps out of gear on the overrun. A vague or obstructive change is often just the linkage, but it can disguise worn synchromesh.
Lot 30
1971 Volkswagen 1300 Beetle
Why it matters: Simple air-cooled engine with no radiator, water pump or coolant to leak, and very little that a home mechanic cannot reach.
Check first
- The body bolts to a separate platform chassis, so a rotten floor can be replaced, but the sills and heater channels are the critical area.
- Ask for the engine to be started from cold and watch the exhaust.
- Ask whether the car jumps out of gear on the overrun. A vague or obstructive change is often just the linkage, but it can disguise worn synchromesh.
Lot 32
1963 Daimler SP250
Why it matters: The SP250 of 1959 was Daimler's first sports car, with a glass-fibre body and a 2.5 litre V8 designed by Edward Turner.
Check first
- The glassfibre body cannot rust, but it can crack and craze.
- Look closely around the door, boot and bonnet hinges, the door handles and the area ahead of the windscreen, where stress cracks are most common, especially on A-spec cars.
- The bonnet can crack through flexing, and the area around its front safety catch is a known weak point.
Lot 42
1956 Austin A40 Cambridge
Why it matters: The A40 Cambridge of 1954 was the first Austin saloon of unitary construction, without a separate chassis.
Check first
- Rust is the main enemy, and it is the reason so many Cambridges disappeared. The bodyshell is load-bearing, so corrosion matters structurally, not just cosmetically.
- Check the sills, floors, bulkhead and door bottoms, and look closely at the rear wings, which one owner quoted by Classic & Sports Car calls a serious rust trap.
- Take a magnet to the lower panels to find filler, and look for rippled or bubbling paint that hints at rot beneath. Assess the quality of earlier repairs as much as fresh corrosion.
Lot 46
1967 Ford (Mustang per the vendor)
Why it matters: The Mustang, launched in 1964, created the American pony car class; the vendor gives the model, so confirm it from the VIN.
Check first
- The Mustang is a monocoque, so rust is structural.
- Specialists list the rear chassis rails and the "drop-off" panels where the boot floor meets the rear quarters first, followed by the floorpans and the floor-to-bulkhead seam.
- The scuttle (cowl) below the windscreen is the classic weak spot: if the seller allows it, pour water into the vents at the back of the bonnet and watch whether it drains below the front wing or into the footwell, usually the nearside.
Lot 72
1947 Morris Ten Series M
Why it matters: The Morris Ten Series M was the first Morris with unitary construction, built before and after the Second World War.
Check first
- As a monocoque, the body is the chassis. Rust in sills, floors, crossmembers and around the spring mounting points affects strength and roadworthiness, not just looks. Classic & Sports Car singles out rust as a serious problem for survivors.
- Check the sills from outside and underneath, the floorpans under the carpets, the boot floor, the bottoms of the doors and the wheelarches. Look closely at where the front and rear springs attach to the body.
- Use a magnet on lower panels to find filler, and look for overlapping patch repairs.
Lot 108
1950 Packard Eight
Why it matters: Packard was one of America's leading luxury makers, and kept its straight-eight engines until 1954.
Check first
- These cars have a separate frame with the body mounted on brackets.
- Owners report that the body-to-frame brackets rot, so look underneath at each mounting.
- Floors rust at the base of the A-pillars, often because water gets in along the leading edges of the front doors, so lift the mats and press the footwell corners.
Lot 114
1978 Ford Escort Ghia automatic
Why it matters: Simple, light, rear-wheel-drive mechanicals that most classic mechanics know well.
Check first
- Rust is the biggest cost, and Mk2 panels were rarely painted inside.
- The Kent crossflow is tough. Tapping from the top usually means worn cam followers, rocker cover leaks are normal, and blue smoke means worn rings or valve stem seals.
- Rumbling in the lower gears means worn bearings, which can survive for years, but jumping out of gear on the overrun means an overhaul is due.
Lot 116
1966 Ford Corsair
Why it matters: Ford of Britain's Corsair of 1963 to 1970 sat between the Cortina and the Zephyr, with V4 engines from 1965.
Check first
- The monocoque shell is closely related to the Cortina's, and many Corsairs lived hard lives as company cars.
- Doors are a known rust area, so check the bottoms and outer skins for bubbling. Look carefully at the sills, the boot floor and the spare wheel well.
- Inspect the inner wings, floorpan and jacking points from underneath where possible, and look for filler with a magnet.
Lot 156
1962 Vauxhall PA Cresta
Why it matters: The PA Cresta of 1957 to 1962 brought American style to Luton, with tail fins and a wraparound windscreen.
Check first
- Rust is the key issue, and body panels are hard to source. A badly rotten car is rarely worth taking on.
- Check the seals and surrounding metal of the panoramic front and rear screens. Water leaking past failed seals rots the floorpans, door pillars and sills.
- Look at the roof panel, the areas behind the headlamps, door skins and sills.
Lot 158
1971 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
Why it matters: The Vanden Plas Princess 1100 and 1300 were the luxury versions of BMC's best-selling 1100 and 1300, with a walnut dashboard and leather seats.
Check first
- Rust is the biggest threat to any ADO16. Check the sills (look out for cover sills welded over rot), floors, door bottoms, bootlid lower edge, front inner and outer wings, front panel, rear wheelarches, rear valance and boot floor.
- The front bulkhead, especially near the heater, corrodes often. Check for damp carpets in the front footwells.
- Inspect both subframes carefully, especially their mounting points. Lift the rear seat base to check that the rear subframe mounts are not pulling away from the floor.
Lot 206
1971 Morris Mini Cooper
Why it matters: Parts supply is among the best for any British classic, from body panels to complete engines.
Check first
- Every Mini rusts. Start with the front "snout" seams, the inner wings at full steering lock, the scuttle and the A-panels around the door hinges, where rot in the wings usually spreads.
- Front subframes are usually protected by oil leaks. Rear subframes are much less protected and are a frequent MoT failure, so inspect them closely from underneath.
- The A-series is simple and durable, but rarely oil-tight; leaks from the rocker cover, driveshaft seals and gear selector rod are normal.
Lot 282
1974 Triumph Spitfire
Why it matters: More than 314,000 were built, so there is a wide choice of cars and a large owner base.
Check first
- The body is steel and largely single-skin, bolted to the chassis.
- The engine is robust and often reaches 100,000 miles. The key check is crankshaft end float: have someone press the clutch while you watch the front pulley.
- Listen with the engine idling in neutral for layshaft rumble that disappears when the clutch is pressed.
Lot 284
1935 Morris Eight four-door saloon (catalogued as Morris)
Why it matters: The Morris Eight of 1935 was Morris's small car answer to the Ford Model Y and Austin Seven.
Check first
- Chassis: the side members are channel sections fitted with the open side facing outwards, which traps water and mud. Inspect them along their length, especially near the wheelarches, and look for bodged plating.
- Look for cracks behind the front spring hangers and, less often, the rear ones.
- Wooden framing: saloons have wood in the body frame, including the ash door frames and around the rear wheelarches, and tourers are built entirely around a wooden frame. Removing the rear seat helps you see the framing. Look for rot, splits, missing sections and woodworm.
Lot 314
1979 Ford Escort
Why it matters: Simple, light, rear-wheel-drive mechanicals that most classic mechanics know well.
Check first
- Rust is the biggest cost, and Mk2 panels were rarely painted inside.
- The Kent crossflow is tough. Tapping from the top usually means worn cam followers, rocker cover leaks are normal, and blue smoke means worn rings or valve stem seals.
- Rumbling in the lower gears means worn bearings, which can survive for years, but jumping out of gear on the overrun means an overhaul is due.
Lot 342
1972 Rover P5B Coupé (catalogued as Rover 3500)
Why it matters: A dignified, well-built car with leather, wood and a strong sense of occasion; P5Bs served the Wilson, Heath, Callaghan and Thatcher governments between 1968 and 1981, and Queen Elizabeth II bought more than one P5.
Check first
- Check the chassis plate and the V5C. The V5C should describe the car as a 3.5 litre with a cylinder capacity of about 3,528cc, unless an engine change has been notified. A V5C showing about 2,995cc on a car with a V8 suggests a 3 litre that has been converted.
- No reliable published key to P5B chassis number prefixes was found for this guide. The Rover P5 club or a marque specialist should be asked to confirm that the chassis number belongs to a 3.5 Litre coupé.
- Look for signs of a converted 3 litre: traces of a clutch pedal or manual linkage, an electric fuel pump fitted where the P5B used a mechanical one, Mark III badging, and wiring or mountings that do not suit a V8. Note that some genuine P5Bs have been converted to electric pumps.
Lot 362
1970 Morris Minor 1000 (catalogued as Morris)
Why it matters: Parts supply is strong, especially for the Minor 1000 (1956 to 1971).
Check first
- The bodyshell is the car's value and rust often starts inside box sections, so bubbling paint can hide much worse.
- The ash frame is structural, not decorative. Press the wood, particularly at joints, along the waist rail and at the base of the rear posts.
- Many Tourers began life as saloons. A properly converted car can be perfectly sound, but poor conversions lack the strengthening and can be unsafe, and some have been sold as factory cars.
Lot 380
1950 MG TD/TF (as catalogued)
Why it matters: The classic upright British sports car, light and simple, with a fold-flat windscreen, separate wings and a fly-off handbrake.
Check first
- Assume the ash frame has been rebuilt at some point, and judge how well. Rot is most common in the lower longitudinal rails and the uprights at the base of the scuttle.
- XPAG and XPEG units are generally robust. Over-revved TA engines are the exception.
- First gear whine is normal. Crunching into second or third, or jumping out on the overrun, means wear.
Lot 410
1965 Ford Cortina
Why it matters: Simple, conventional engineering shared with many other Fords, so most mechanical parts are easy to source.
Check first
- Mk1 and Mk2: front wings, headlamp surrounds and the offside front corner; strut tops, inner wings, bulkhead and scuttle; A-posts, sills, B-posts and door jambs; jacking points and floors; rear chassis rails, spring hangers and damper mounts; spare wheel well, boot floor, rear valance and bootlid leading edge.
- Kent engines: noisy valvegear usually means worn rockers, followers or camshaft; a cold-start rattle is typically the timing chain; blue smoke and fumes from the oil filler or breathers mean worn rings and bores. The early 1198cc unit is prone to worn crankshaft bearings.
- Worn second-gear synchromesh is very common. Jumping out of top may be a simple selector fault or worn dogs, which is more serious.
Lot 514
1956 Morris Minor
Why it matters: Parts supply is strong, especially for the Minor 1000 (1956 to 1971).
Check first
- The bodyshell is the car's value and rust often starts inside box sections, so bubbling paint can hide much worse.
- The ash frame is structural, not decorative. Press the wood, particularly at joints, along the waist rail and at the base of the rear posts.
- Many Tourers began life as saloons. A properly converted car can be perfectly sound, but poor conversions lack the strengthening and can be unsafe, and some have been sold as factory cars.
Lot 540
1986 Jaguar XJ-SC V12 automatic
Why it matters: The XJ-SC was the cabriolet version of Jaguar's XJ-S grand tourer, offered from 1983 to 1988.
Check first
- Pre-1991 XJ-S bodies were not galvanised, and rust is the biggest threat.
- Start with the jacking points, which can hide serious corrosion, then the sills and closing plates, floorpans, the bottoms of the front wings where they meet the sills (the wings should sit flush), wing edges around the headlamps, doors, rear wheelarches, the lower front edge of the rear wings, the boot lid edge and the windscreen scuttle.
- Check the subframes and crossmembers too.
Modern classics and youngtimers (14)
Lot 8
1999 Ford Fiesta Zetec
Why it matters: The fourth-generation Fiesta, launched in 1995, introduced Ford's Zetec-SE engines to Britain's small car market.
Check first
- Mainstream reviews rate rust as a lower risk than on older Fords, but these cars are now well over 20 years old. Owners report rot in the rear arches, inner arches and sills (particularly near the rear trailing arm mounts), around the fuel filler, the bottom of the tailgate and the floor under the rear seat.
- Check door bottoms, door and tailgate opening edges, and the windscreen surround.
- Damp front carpets usually point to a leak between the windscreen and bulkhead.
Lot 12
1988 Ford Escort Ghia
Why it matters: The Mk4 Escort of 1986 to 1990 was a facelift of the front-wheel-drive Mk3 launched in 1980.
Check first
- The battery tray and bulkhead are the classic rot spots. A damp front carpet, especially on the passenger side, is a strong hint of trouble here.
- Check the rear inner arches, rear chassis rails, sills (blocked drains cause rot from inside), floorpan and boot floor, front crossmember, behind the headlamps and around the front mounts of the rear trailing arms.
- Visible rust shows at door bottoms, wing tips by the indicators, the bonnet's leading edge, roof gutters, tailgate seams and hinges.
Lot 22
1985 Vauxhall Nova L
Why it matters: The Nova was Vauxhall's British version of the Opel Corsa, sold from 1983 to 1993.
Check first
- Rust is the main concern. Check sills, door bottoms, the lower edge of the tailgate, front and rear wings, rear wheel arches, A-pillars and around both screens.
- The bulkhead and battery tray are vulnerable. Lift the carpets to check the cabin floor and the boot floor, including the spare wheel well.
- Inspect the front strut turrets, the underbody suspension mounts and the rear damper top mounts.
Lot 34
1988 Lotus Esprit Turbo
Why it matters: Striking Giugiaro styling on the 1976 to 1987 cars, and the smoother Peter Stevens shape from 1987, both instantly recognisable.
Check first
- Glassfibre does not rust, but it cracks, crazes and is hard to repair well.
- The four-cylinder twin-cam is durable if serviced, often running to six figures.
- The early Citroen-Maserati box is the most fragile part of the early cars.
Lot 54
1988 Toyota MR2
Why it matters: The MR2 of 1984 was the first mid-engined car built in series by a Japanese maker.
Check first
- Rust is the main enemy.
- Start with the rear wheelarches, then the sills and jacking points, which are hidden behind plastic covers, so ask whether the covers have been off.
- Check the front wheelarches, lower front wings, door bottoms, the bases of the A and B-pillars, floorpans, the rear subframe mountings and the rear valance.
Lot 168
1991 Rover Mini Cooper
Why it matters: Parts supply is among the best for any British classic, from body panels to complete engines.
Check first
- Every Mini rusts. Start with the front "snout" seams, the inner wings at full steering lock, the scuttle and the A-panels around the door hinges, where rot in the wings usually spreads.
- Front subframes are usually protected by oil leaks. Rear subframes are much less protected and are a frequent MoT failure, so inspect them closely from underneath.
- The A-series is simple and durable, but rarely oil-tight; leaks from the rocker cover, driveshaft seals and gear selector rod are normal.
Lot 210
2000 Subaru Impreza Turbo
Why it matters: The Impreza Turbo was the road car behind Subaru's World Rally Championship manufacturers' titles of 1995, 1996 and 1997.
Check first
- The rear arches, inner rear arches and rear strut turret tops are the main rust points; serious turret rot is a structural problem.
- Check sills (rust can hide under plastic covers), front and rear subframes, the bottoms of the front wings and the panel under the radiator.
- A fuel smell near the nearside rear arch suggests a corroded filler neck.
Lot 218
1996 Volvo 940 SE Turbo automatic
Why it matters: The 940, built from 1990 to 1998, was a development of the 740 and kept Volvo's rear-wheel-drive layout.
Check first
- The Volvo Owners' Club lists the places where 900s rot, and many are hidden.
- Check the front chassis rails where the front suspension links attach, which can rot from the inside, and the box sections under the engine and gearbox.
- Look in the engine bay at the bulkhead seams and horizontal frame members, mainly on the passenger side.
Lot 222
1999 BMW 318is
Why it matters: The 318is was the sporting four-cylinder version of the BMW 3 Series; the official listing confirms which generation this car is.
Check first
- Start with a history check, because many E36s have been crashed.
- The main rust areas are the front and rear wheel arches, the inner front wings and the welds around the suspension turrets, the sills and jacking points, the windscreen surround, door bottoms and the boot lid.
- Lift the rubber boot seal and inspect the seam where the inner and outer panels meet; Hagerty warns that rot here is an expensive repair.
Lot 276
1990 Ford Escort XR3i convertible
Why it matters: The XR3i was the fuel-injected sporting Escort, and the convertible was built for Ford by Karmann.
Check first
- The battery tray and bulkhead are the classic rot spots. A damp front carpet, especially on the passenger side, is a strong hint of trouble here.
- Check the rear inner arches, rear chassis rails, sills (blocked drains cause rot from inside), floorpan and boot floor, front crossmember, behind the headlamps and around the front mounts of the rear trailing arms.
- Visible rust shows at door bottoms, wing tips by the indicators, the bonnet's leading edge, roof gutters, tailgate seams and hinges.
Lot 286
1984 Porsche 944
Why it matters: The 944, launched in 1982, used a front-mounted engine with a rear-mounted transaxle.
Check first
- The body is galvanised, which helps a great deal, but 944s still rust.
- Check the sills (they often rot from the inside out), the front and rear wheelarches, the wings, the front jacking points and the rear suspension and trailing arm mounts.
- Use a magnet or paint gauge on the lower front edge of the rear wings, where filler is common.
Lot 334
1990 Fiat Uno Turbo i.e.
Why it matters: The Uno Turbo i.e. was Fiat's turbocharged hot hatch version of the Uno, launched in 1985.
Check first
- Rust is the biggest concern. Check the floor seams, sills, fuel tank mounts, boot floor and spare wheel well.
- Inspect the rear turret tops, front inner wings, strut turrets and suspension arm mountings.
- The engine subframe is hard to repair in place, so look closely at it from below with a torch.
Lot 470
1987 BMW 525e automatic
Why it matters: The 525e was the economy model of the E28 5 Series, with a low-revving 2.7 litre six-cylinder engine.
Check first
- Check the leading edge of the bonnet, front wings, suspension turrets, sills and jacking points, and the A-posts and door seal areas.
- Front footwell floors rot from wheel spray, and rear damper towers and the floor under the rear seat are also vulnerable.
- Blocked drains rot the door bottoms and rear of the sills, and leaking sunroof drains put water into the footwells.
Lot 486
1990 Rover Mini Cooper
Why it matters: Parts supply is among the best for any British classic, from body panels to complete engines.
Check first
- Every Mini rusts. Start with the front "snout" seams, the inner wings at full steering lock, the scuttle and the A-panels around the door hinges, where rot in the wings usually spreads.
- Front subframes are usually protected by oil leaks. Rear subframes are much less protected and are a frequent MoT failure, so inspect them closely from underneath.
- The A-series is simple and durable, but rarely oil-tight; leaks from the rocker cover, driveshaft seals and gear selector rod are normal.
Motorcycles and scooters at the Mathewsons auction (7)
Lot 16
1973 Honda C90
Why it matters: The C90 belongs to Honda's Super Cub family, the best-selling line of motor vehicles ever built.
Check first
- The rear mudguard is part of the frame on these bikes. Classic Bike Hub calls rust here the single most important check: severe corrosion can let the shock mounts pull out or the frame break. Look underneath and inside the mudguard with a torch.
- MCN also flags the frame down tubes above the engine, and the insides of the fork and swinging arm.
- Fresh paint or underseal over the rear frame deserves suspicion. Ask permission before probing, but look closely for filler and ripples.
Lot 20
1997 Ducati 900SS
Why it matters: The 900SS was Ducati's air-cooled, two-valve desmodromic V-twin Supersport of the 1990s.
Check first
- Owners on the Ducati Forum report cracking in the top frame rails behind the headstock on carburettor SS models; a bolt-on brace is sometimes fitted. Inspect this area with a torch.
- Look at the aluminium swinging arm for cracks, especially near welds and pivots.
- Classic Bike Hub notes upswept exhaust mounting brackets can crack.
Lot 33
Norton
Why it matters: Norton is a British maker known for its racing record and its Featherbed frame; the catalogue gives no year or model, so identify the machine from the official listing first.
Check first
- Engine mounting. The Commando engine was designed for rubber "Isolastic" mounts; the featherbed mounts the engine rigidly. Norton Owners Club and Access Norton forum members agree that a rigidly mounted 850 will vibrate. Some builders use rubber-mounted conversions, sometimes called "featherlastic". Ask which approach was used and look for broken lamp filaments, cracked brackets and loose fittings.
- Engine plates. These are normally made for the job. Forum builders warn that a weak top mount or small bolts can shear, and that the engine has to be inclined to suit the frame. Check plate thickness, bolt size and that nothing is cracked or fretting.
- Primary drive and chain line. Fitting a Commando chaincase can mean moving the engine and gearbox closer together. Check chain alignment, guides and for oil leaks from the primary case.
Lot 67
1974 DEMM
Why it matters: DEMM was an Italian maker of small-capacity motorcycles and mopeds, rarely seen in Britain.
Check first
- Find the frame number and engine number. Photograph both, and check that they look original, not re-stamped or ground. A small museum record of a 1963 DEMM shows the engine casing cast with the company name and Milan, and a separate engine plate, which gives an idea of what to expect.
- Ask what Italian paperwork came with the moped. Older Italian mopeds often carried a moped certificate rather than a full registration document; a buyer should ask for whatever original Italian document exists.
- Check engine capacity. GOV.UK says vehicles with an engine of 48cc or less can be registered without telling HMRC first. A 49 or 50cc moped will need a NOVA notification within 14 days of arrival, and DVLA will not register it until that is done.
Lot 84
1974 Suzuki RL200 Exacta
Why it matters: The RL range was Suzuki's line of two-stroke trials motorcycles in the 1970s.
Check first
- Cycle News warned that chrome-moly frames can be brittle and break. Look closely at welds, the headstock, engine mounts and footrest mounts for cracks or repairs.
- Cycle World noted that footrest pivot plates were bolted on, and that one owner sheared the bolts. Check these mounts.
- Trials bikes take hard knocks. Look for bent bars, kinked frame tubes and damage under the bash plate.
Lot 101
1976 Lambretta Jet 200
Why it matters: The Jet 200 was built under licence by Serveta in Spain after Innocenti ended Lambretta production in Italy in 1971.
Check first
- Scootering advises stripping paint around the frame number (if the seller permits, or at least close inspection) for grinding, weld marks or a flattened tube. 200cc models are the most likely to have had numbers altered.
- Check for crash damage: side panels should sit flush, the rear mudguard should not bow, forks should look straight and the headset should not rub the horncasting. Look for a ripple in the frame tube between the fork stem and legshield struts.
- Rust spots include the main front tube, the area under the front mudguard, the number plate area and the lower straight frame tubes, which Scootering says are not easily repaired.
Lot 111
1965 Honda CA77 305 Dream
Why it matters: The CA77 305 Dream was Honda's 305cc twin-cylinder touring motorcycle of the 1960s.
Check first
- The frame, front fork and rear mudguard are welded steel pressings. Look for rust inside seams, around the rear mudguard and under the tank, and for dents in the deep mudguard valances and side covers.
- Check alignment by eye from front and rear; a crash-damaged pressed frame is harder to straighten than a tubular one.
- On a customised bike, note what has been removed or altered: cut mudguards, non-standard seats, bars or lighting. Ask whether the original parts come with it.
Tractors and commercials (1)
Lot 242
1969 David Brown tractor
Why it matters: David Brown built its tractors at Meltham, near Huddersfield, from 1939 until the business was sold to Case in 1972.
Check first
- Find the serial number and check it against the claimed year. Sources disagree on where to look: TractorData places the 990 number on the right side of the frame and the 1200 number on the clutch housing, while owners report plates near the seat or above the lift levers. Photograph whatever you find.
- TractorData lists starting serial numbers by year for each model, which gives a rough dating check. For example, the 1200 started at 700001 in 1967.
- The engine number is a separate check and an engine change is common on working tractors.
Tell me when one appears
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Also in the sale
Memorabilia, signs, automobilia and modern cars are also in the catalogue; see the full Mathewsons catalogue (opens in a new tab).
Can you visit the Mathewsons auction?
Yes, during the viewing week: Wednesday 25 November to Tuesday 1 December 2026; Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 12 noon, closed Sunday. Entry is £5 per person, which includes admission on the day and a donation to one of Mathewsons' chosen charities. The saleroom is closed to visitors on the sale days, 2 to 4 December, which are held behind closed doors.
See our December 2026 sale preview and viewing guide for the rules, the shuttle and parking.
Before you bid
- Lots are sold as seen.
- View the vehicle in person during the viewing week.
- Read Mathewsons' terms (opens in a new tab) before you register.
Mathewsons December auction results
December auction results
After 4 DecemberWe will link Mathewsons' official results here as soon as they are published.
When is the next Mathewsons auction after December?
After December
The next sale dates appear here as soon as Mathewsons confirm them.
2027 dates not yet announced
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