Thinking of bidding?

Fords, Austins, Morrises, Vauxhalls and their rivals. Rust is the main enemy: sills, floors, inner wings, jacking points and the bottoms of doors and wings. Mechanical parts for the most popular models are usually still available, so a sound body with a tired engine is often a better buy than the reverse.

Check the body or chassis for rust and accident damage, and the hood, frame and seals for leaks. Many sports cars have been driven hard or modified, so ask what has been changed and look for evidence of the work.

Hot hatches, rally homologation cars and turbocharged coupés. Originality and identity matter most here: these cars were often modified, stolen or rebuilt from more than one car. Check the VIN, the V5C and the history file with particular care, and expect buyers to ask about the same.

Look underneath: chassis rails, outriggers and the bulkhead are the expensive areas. Check for oil leaks from axles and gearboxes, and for signs of hard off-road use.

Check the body for rust, and any conversion for the quality of its work. Gas and electrical installations in a camper should be checked by someone qualified before use.

Glassfibre does not rust, but the steel chassis or frame under it can, and cracks in the body are costly to repair well. Check what licence you need to drive the car before you buy it.

Wooden body frames, cable or rod brakes and older electrical systems need knowledge to look after. Look for a car with a history file and, ideally, the backing of a specialist club.

Check that the frame and engine numbers match the V5C, and look for fork and frame damage that suggests an accident.