Thinking of bidding?
MGA (1955 to 1962)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The MGA (1955 to 1962) replaced the upright T-Series with a low-slung roadster and coupe on a separate steel chassis. It is simple to maintain and well supported, but chassis and body rust are serious, and Twin Cam and De Luxe cars need careful identity checks.
At a glance
- Years
- 1955 to 1962 (1500 launched September 1955, coupe 1956, Twin Cam July 1958 to 1960, 1600 May 1959, 1600 Mk II 1961, production ended June 1962)
- Body styles
- two-seat roadster, fixed-head coupe
- Engines
- BMC B-series four-cylinder (1489cc, 1588cc, 1622cc); 1588cc twin-overhead-camshaft engine in the Twin Cam
- Built in
- Abingdon (then in Berkshire, now Oxfordshire), England
Why people buy one
- Classic 1950s styling and an open, light-to-drive two-seater with a real sense of occasion.
- Pushrod B-series engines are durable and shared with many other BMC cars, so mechanical parts are easy to find.
- A wide choice: early 1500s, the 1600 with front disc brakes from 1959, and the more powerful 1600 Mk II.
- A genuine Twin Cam, of which 2,111 were built, is an important piece of MG competition history.
- Strong support from the MG Car Club's MGA Register and MGA Twin Cam Group, which can advise on originality.
What to weigh up
- Rust in the chassis and body is the main threat; Classics World says complete new chassis frames are not available, so major chassis repairs usually mean fabrication.
- The doors are aluminium skins on steel frames and suffer electrolytic corrosion, especially along the lower edge.
- Twin Cam identity needs checking: many have lost their original engines, and a 1600 De Luxe shares the Twin Cam's all-disc brakes and Dunlop wheels with a pushrod engine (395 De Luxes were built).
- Hagerty notes that matching numbers are easy to fake because many BMC parts interchange, and MGB engines and modern five-speed gearboxes are common fitments.
- The Twin Cam engine gained a reputation for holed pistons when new and needs specialist knowledge to run reliably.
- Weather protection is basic, the roadster hood is hard to put up single-handed, and the cabin is tight.
Where they rust
- Main chassis rails under the bulkhead, and their inner faces under the floorboards.
- Where the sills attach to the chassis, and the sills themselves.
- Rear spring hangers and the rear crossmember.
- Door pillars and the "F-section" around the sill and door post; doors should sit firmly on their hinges.
- Lower edges of the aluminium doors, where they meet the steel frame.
- Lower front wings and the area under the headlights.
- The tapered rear wing section behind the rear wheels, and the boot floor corners.
- Battery trays behind the seats.
- On the coupe, the seam where the roof meets the rear deck.
Mechanical weak spots
- Worn B-series engines show low oil pressure when hot (Classic & Sports Car suggests 50psi or more at speed is healthy), blue smoke, rumbles and high oil consumption; check for water loss, as heads can crack.
- Twin SU carburettors often need balancing.
- The front suspension needs greasing every 1,000 miles; neglect causes play and uneven tyre wear, and kingpins typically need renewing by around 50,000 miles.
- Gearbox synchromesh wears and gearboxes often weep oil; the rear axle is robust if it has not been run dry, but check for oil on the rear brake drums.
- Twin Cam engines were originally 9.9:1 compression and suffered holed pistons; a lower 8.3:1 option followed, and a rebuild should use improved parts. The alloy head on an iron block makes the cooling system critical.
- Brake seals and hoses perish on little-used cars, and 1500s have drum brakes all round.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Check the chassis number plate and engine number against the V5C, and ask whether there is a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate, which covers MGs built from 1953 to 1980.
- On a claimed Twin Cam or De Luxe, ask the MGA Twin Cam Group or MGA Register to check the chassis number before bidding, and look for the Dunlop centre-lock wheels and four-wheel disc brakes, though these alone do not prove a car is genuine.
- With a torch, look under the car at the chassis rails, sills, rear spring hangers and rear crossmember for rot, fresh welding or thick underseal.
- Look along the bottom edges of the doors for bubbling, check the panel gaps, and lift the seats and carpets to see the floorboards and battery trays.
- Open the bonnet and check the engine for oil leaks and coolant loss, and if staff start the car, listen for knocks and watch for smoke; do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Most mechanical parts, trim and many body panels are reproduced, although complete chassis are not available and some repair sections must be fabricated. Twin Cam engine parts are more specialised. The MG Car Club's MGA Register and MGA Twin Cam Group, and the MG Owners' Club, are the best sources of technical help and identity advice.
Seen on Bangers & Cash
- MGA (Bangers & Cash series 5, episode 7, First shown March 2022)
- 1962 MGA Mk2 Coupe (Bangers & Cash series 6, episode 12, First shown November 2022)
- MGA (Bangers & Cash series 10, episode 10, First shown October 2024)
- 1960 MGA Roadster (Bangers & Cash series 10, episode 13, First shown October 2024)
Sources
- Buyer's guide: MGA (Classic & Sports Car), 10 April 2019
- MGA buyer's guide (Classics World), 24 January 2025
- Your handy 1955 to 62 MG MGA buyer's guide (Hagerty), accessed 13 October 2026
- MGA Twin Cam Group (MG Car Club), accessed 13 October 2026
- Heritage Certificates from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust (FBHVC), 9 August 2022
An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.