Thinking of bidding?
Morgan 4/4 and Plus 4 (1950 to 2000)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The Morgan 4/4 and Plus 4 (1950 to 2000) are traditional ash-framed four-cylinder sports cars on a steel chassis with sliding-pillar front suspension. Rotten timber, a rusty chassis and the wrong engine for the claimed model are the main risks. The Plus 4 Plus coupe and Plus 8 are not covered.
At a glance
- Years
- 1950 to 2000 for this profile (Plus 4 1950 to 1969, revived 1985 to 2000; 4/4 Series II from 1955, with later 4/4 series to 2000). 4/4 and Plus 4 cars built after 2000 are not covered here.
- Body styles
- two-seat and four-seat open tourers; drophead coupe (Plus 4, to 1969)
- Engines
- Standard Vanguard 2088cc and Triumph TR 1991cc and 2138cc (Plus 4, 1950 to 1969); Ford sidevalve, 105E, 109E, 116E and Kent crossflow (4/4); Fiat twin-cam (4/4 and Plus 4); Ford CVH and Zetec (4/4); Rover M16 and T16 (Plus 4, 1988 to 2000)
- Built in
- Malvern Link, Worcestershire, England
Why people buy one
- A hand-built British sports car whose looks barely changed in decades, with a strong following and an active club.
- The engines are mainstream units from Standard-Triumph, Ford, Fiat and Rover, so most mechanical parts are easy to get.
- The Triumph-engined Plus 4 uses the same engines as the TR2 to TR4 sports cars, and the 2138cc TR4 unit is generally rated the best of them.
- The steel chassis and ash frame can be repaired or renewed, and Morgan still supplies many body and chassis parts.
- The factory archive can issue a Chassis Record Certificate, so a car's original specification can be checked.
What to weigh up
- The ride from the sliding-pillar front suspension is firm and jouncy, the cabin is tight, and the hood is slow to raise and not fully watertight.
- Hidden ash-frame rot and chassis rust are common; Sports Car Market warns that cars that look sound can turn into major projects.
- Identity needs checking: Plus 4s came with Vanguard, TR2, TR3 and TR4 engines, and a claimed Super Sports (a small run from 1961 or 1962 with Lawrence-tuned TR engines and a low-line aluminium body; published totals range from about 95 to just over 100) should be backed by a factory record.
- Engines have often been swapped, and Classics World says even Morgan may not know the exact specification of some early 1970s cars built with a mix of parts.
- The Moss gearbox in the Triumph-engined Plus 4 has no synchromesh on first, and parts and rebuild knowledge are scarce.
- This profile does not cover the glassfibre Plus 4 Plus coupe (26 built), the Plus 8, or 4/4 and Plus 4 models built after 2000.
Where they rust
- The ash frame, especially the hinge posts and the wooden sill boards under each door; a hinge post that moves with the door open points to rot.
- The steel chassis rails and crossmembers, which had little rust protection before the mid-1980s.
- The front valance (flitch panel), which is double-skinned near the steering column and traps water, and the joint where it meets the bulkhead.
- The scuttle and cowl, and the bulkhead where it meets the wings; Sports Car Market reports terminal rust in cowls and firewalls.
- Wing edges, where steel strips and brackets react with aluminium, and the rear corners of the rear wings.
- Behind the wings on pre-1986 cars, where paint cracks at the beading let water in.
- Paint blisters around the headlamp pods, wing lamp bolts and lower door corners.
Mechanical weak spots
- The engines are mainstream Ford, Fiat, Rover and Triumph units, so their faults and fixes are well known; check for smoke, oil leaks and rattles as on the donor cars.
- The sliding pillars need regular lubrication; most cars have a one-shot oiler worked from the cockpit, and kingpins and bushes wear out faster if this is neglected.
- Most cars in this period use a steering box rather than a rack; excess play means wear, and heavy steering can mean dry or worn joints.
- Front disc brakes were an option on the Plus 4 from 1959 and standard from 1960.
- Electrics are simple; check that the lights, gauges and wipers work.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Find the chassis number (on older cars it is stamped on the crossmember behind the seats or on a plate on the bulkhead) and check it against the V5C; ask whether the car has a Morgan Chassis Record Certificate.
- Read the engine number and type and compare them with the V5C and the record: a Vanguard, TR or later engine should match what the seller claims for the model and year.
- Open each door and press the hinge posts and sill boards for softness, and check that the doors close cleanly without lifting.
- With a torch, look under the car at the chassis rails, crossmembers and suspension mounts, and for rust where the bulkhead meets the valance.
- Lift the carpets and check the floorboards and footwells for damp, and if staff start the car, listen for knocks and rattles and watch the oil pressure; do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Morgan still supplies many chassis members, ash frame sections and body panels, and Morgan specialists handle timber and chassis work that general bodyshops may not know. Engine and gearbox parts depend on the donor: Ford, Fiat and Rover units are well supported, while Moss gearbox parts are harder to find. The Morgan Sports Car Club has a technical section, a stock of rare parts for older cars and a large archive.
Seen on Bangers & Cash
- 1954 Morgan +4 Coupe (Bangers & Cash series 8, episode 7, First shown September 2023)
Sources
- Morgan 4/4 buyer's guide (Classics World), 23 May 2024
- Morgan Buyers' Guide (gomog.com), January 2020
- Plus 4 Plusses (and Minuses) (Sports Car Market), 1 October 2009
- Morgan chassis numbers (gomog.com), accessed 14 October 2026
- Ownership: Chassis Record Certificates (Morgan Motor Company), accessed 14 October 2026
- About us (Morgan Sports Car Club), accessed 14 October 2026
- Used car buying guide: Morgan Plus 4 (Autocar), accessed 14 October 2026
- Morgan +4 (Wikipedia), accessed 14 October 2026
An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.