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Triumph Stag (1970 to 1977)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The Triumph Stag (1970 to 1977) is a Michelotti-styled four-seat V8 convertible with a T-bar roof and optional hardtop. Its engine earned a poor reputation, but well-maintained cars are now reliable; rust and cooling health decide most cars.
At a glance
- Years
- 1970 to 1977 (launched June 1970; Mk2 from February 1973, from UK commission number LD20001; late Mk2 revisions 1975 to 1976; production ended June 1977)
- Body styles
- four-seat convertible with T-bar roll hoop, soft top and optional removable hardtop
- Engines
- Triumph 2997cc single-overhead-cam V8 with twin Stromberg carburettors (146bhp, UK specification)
- Built in
- Canley, Coventry, England
Why people buy one
- A comfortable, refined four-seat open tourer with a smooth V8 and plenty of character.
- Most early engine problems are now understood; the Stag Owners Club says a well-sorted car is likely to be reliable.
- Choice of overdrive manual (overdrive standard from the 1973 model year) or Borg Warner automatic.
- Most cars came with both soft top and hardtop, giving genuine year-round use.
- Parts support and specialist knowledge are strong, and the club is large and long established.
What to weigh up
- The 3.0 V8 is sensitive to neglect: poor water circulation, a weak water pump and alloy heads that corrode without inhibitor led to overheating, warped heads and blown head gaskets.
- Rust is the main enemy, and Classic & Sports Car says it is worse on cars built from 1973.
- Many cars have been fitted with Rover V8, Triumph six or Ford V6 engines. Classic & Sports Car says conversions are falling from favour and a poor one can be dangerous, and most buyers prefer the original engine.
- Many cars have had quick cosmetic restorations, so an expert or club inspection is worthwhile.
- Hagerty UK describes the car as a tourer rather than a true sports car, with light, low-feedback steering and noticeable body flex.
Where they rust
- A-posts behind the carpet trim; Hagerty UK says if these are rotten, the rest probably is too.
- Inner and outer sills and jacking points.
- Front panel behind the headlamps, and the inner and outer front wings.
- Scuttle and floors; lift the rear seat base, as rot there can point to worse problems.
- Subframe and suspension mountings, including the rear trailing arm mountings.
- Rear suspension mounting and axle casing, where electrolytic corrosion can rot through.
- Door bottoms, wheelarches, bootlid edges, boot floor and valances.
- Hardtop edges.
Mechanical weak spots
- Cooling: the engine must have corrosion-inhibiting antifreeze and a healthy radiator; overheating at a standstill may only be a weak viscous fan coupling. Uprated radiators and electric fans are common and sensible.
- Timing chains should be renewed about every 30,000 miles; a rattle from the front of the engine means chains and tensioners need urgent attention.
- Head gaskets fail after overheating; look for coolant loss and emulsified oil.
- Manual gearbox: a noise that quietens when the clutch is pressed in neutral points to a worn layshaft bearing; synchromesh weakens and overdrive faults are often electrical. Automatics should shift smoothly with clean fluid.
- Rear axle and driveshafts: listen for whine and rumble, and check the sliding driveshaft splines have been greased, as seized splines upset the handling.
- Steering: power-assisted rack; over-light steering suggests a faulty spool valve, and worn rack mounting bushes reduce precision.
- Electrics: most faults come from aged wiring and poor connections; check all lights, instruments and the electric windows.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Check the commission number against the V5C (UK cars carry an LD prefix, with Mk2s from LD20001), and check the details match the claimed Mk1 or Mk2: Mk1 cars have Rostyle trims on steel wheels and a three-window hood, early Mk2s have coachlines and a black tail panel.
- Open the bonnet and look for the original Triumph V8, signs of coolant leaks or overheating, coolant colour and sludge under the oil filler cap.
- Lift the carpets and rear seat base and look at the A-posts, floors and sills for rust or fresh filler, and use a torch underneath at the jacking points and suspension mountings.
- Check the hardtop's edges for rust and the hood and frame for splits or damage, and confirm the hood is in its well if the hardtop is fitted.
- Ask for receipts for timing chains, cooling work and any engine rebuild; if staff start the car, listen for front-end chain rattle and watch the temperature gauge, but do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Most parts are available new or remanufactured, including engine, cooling and body parts, and specialist support is strong. The Stag Owners Club has a large technical section and encourages buyers to join before buying.
Our sister site: Triumph Stag Archive
Seen on Bangers & Cash
No appearances found in our car finder.
Sources
- Buyer's guide: Triumph Stag (Classic & Sports Car), 20 February 2020
- Buying guide: Triumph Stag (1970 to 1977) (Hagerty UK), 5 January 2021
- Triumph Stag buyer's guide (Classics World), 18 September 2024
- Used car buying guide: Triumph Stag (Autocar), February 2020
- Differences between Mk I and Mk II (Stag Owners Club), accessed 14 October 2026
- Buyer's guide (Stag Owners Club), accessed 14 October 2026
An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.