Thinking of bidding?
Triumph TR2, TR3 and TR3A (1953 to 1962)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The Triumph TR2, TR3 and TR3A (1953 to 1962) are the sidescreen TRs, simple and tough two-seaters on a separate chassis. Most were exported, so check for rust, cars converted from left-hand drive and claimed specifications. The US-only TR3B is covered as a returned import.
At a glance
- Years
- 1953 to 1962 (TR2 August 1953 to October 1955, "long door" bodies until October 1954; TR3 October 1955 to September 1957, front disc brakes standard from late 1956; TR3A September 1957 to October 1961, 2138cc engine optional from 1959; TR3B built for North America only in 1962)
- Body styles
- two-seat open sports car with removable sidescreens; optional steel hardtop (GT kit) on the TR3 and TR3A, and an occasional rear seat
- Engines
- Standard wet-liner four-cylinder, 1991cc (90bhp TR2, 95 to 100bhp TR3 and TR3A); 2138cc optional on the TR3A and fitted to later TR3Bs
- Built in
- Coventry, England; about 500 TR2s were assembled from kits by Impéria in Belgium
Why people buy one
- A classic 1950s British sports car with cutaway doors, a low screen and a strong rally and Le Mans record.
- The wet-liner four-cylinder engine is robust with regular oil changes and simple to rebuild.
- The TR3 was one of the first British production cars with front disc brakes as standard, from late 1956.
- Classics World says parts support and the specialist base are wide, which makes ownership easier than many rivals of the period.
- Over 80,000 sidescreen cars were built, so there is plenty of choice, from the narrow-grille TR2 and TR3 to the wide-grille TR3A.
What to weigh up
- Most cars went abroad: the TR Register gives 56,340 of the 58,236 TR3As as exports, so many UK cars are returned left-hand-drive cars converted to right-hand drive. Ask for the conversion and import paperwork.
- Many TR2s and drum-braked TR3s have been converted to disc-brake TR3 specification, and gearbox, overdrive and steering upgrades are common, so the specification may not be original.
- The TR3B was never officially sold in the UK. It has TSF or TCF commission numbers, not the TS numbers of the TR2, TR3 and TR3A.
- Claimed works or competition history needs documents; the 1959 Le Mans TR3S cars, for example, had glassfibre bodies and were longer than production cars.
- The ride is firm, the cockpit is cramped and draughty, and the early gearbox has no synchromesh on first gear.
- The TR4, TR4A, TR5 and later TRs have their own profiles and are not covered here.
Where they rust
- The rear of the chassis, which rusts more than the oily front; check the body mounting points for corrosion, distortion and crash damage.
- Inner and outer sills, especially on early long-door TR2s.
- The scuttle, where blocked drain holes let water rot the scuttle, wings and A-posts.
- Floorpans and footwells.
- Front and rear wings, especially where inner and outer panels join and trap mud and salt.
- Inner wings.
- Boot floor and the bottom of the boot lid.
- Do not assume a car imported from a dry US state is rust-free; check it as closely as a UK car.
Mechanical weak spots
- Engine: Classics World suggests about 50psi of oil pressure at 3,000rpm when warm; low pressure, rumbling or heavy blue smoke points to wear, and a little smoke is normal.
- Gearbox: first gear has no synchromesh on most cars, and many have a later TR4 all-synchromesh box. Whine is normal, but jumping out of gear means a rebuild. An "O" in the commission number shows the car left the factory with overdrive.
- Front suspension: trunnions need regular gear oil, and wear shows as play; worm-and-peg steering can feel vague, and some cars have a TR4 rack-and-pinion conversion.
- Rear suspension is by leaf springs and lever-arm dampers; check spring eye and shackle bushes, and tap wire wheel spokes for an even ring.
- Brakes: drums all round on the TR2 and early TR3 with no servo; many have disc conversions, so check what is fitted and when the fluid was last changed.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Find the commission number plate and check it against the V5C. TR2, TR3 and TR3A numbers start TS; an "L" suffix means left-hand drive from new and "O" means overdrive, so a right-hand-drive car with an "L" has been converted.
- Ask for a British Motor Museum Heritage Certificate, which covers Triumphs from 1946 and shows the original build and despatch dates, engine number, colour and equipment, so you can compare it with the car.
- Identify the model: the TR2 and TR3 have a recessed narrow grille, with an egg-crate grille on the TR3; the TR3A has a full-width grille and external door handles.
- With a torch, look under the car at the rear chassis rails and body mountings, the sills and the floor; lift the carpets and check the footwells and scuttle area for damp or filler.
- Open the bonnet and note the engine number and any oil or coolant leaks, and if staff start the car, watch the oil pressure and listen for knocks; do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Parts supply is very good, with new chassis, body panels, engine internals and trim widely available, though original hardtops and some early TR2 parts are harder to find. The TR Register publishes model guides and production figures, and the TR Drivers Club covers all TRs from the TR2 to the TR8.
Seen on Bangers & Cash
- Triumph TR2 (Bangers & Cash series 10, episode 10, First shown October 2024)
Sources
- Triumph TR3 buyer's guide (Classics World), 5 March 2026
- 1953 to 1955, 1955 to 1962 Triumph TR2 and TR3 buying guide (Magneto), 2 September 2024
- Triumph TR2 buyer's guide (TR Register), accessed 14 October 2026
- Triumph TR3 buyer's guide (TR Register), accessed 14 October 2026
- Triumph TR3A buyer's guide (TR Register), accessed 14 October 2026
- Triumph TR3B (TR Drivers Club), accessed 14 October 2026
- Heritage Certificates (British Motor Museum), accessed 14 October 2026
- Triumph TR3 (Wikipedia), accessed 14 October 2026
An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.