What should I check first when buying a classic car?

The structure. Rust in the sills, floors, chassis rails and suspension mountings is usually the most expensive fault to put right. After that, check that the VIN or chassis number matches the V5C and look at the car's MOT history on GOV.UK.

Can I test drive a car at a classic car auction?

Usually not. Auction cars are generally sold as seen, so the viewing is your chance to inspect the car, listen to it run where the auction house allows, and look underneath.

Do I need insurance to drive a newly bought classic home?

Yes. A car must be insured to be driven on the road, so arrange cover before you collect it, or have it transported.

The Classic Car Owner's Guide

Buying a classic car

By Jon Cosson · Last checked 13 October 2026

Most disappointing classic car purchases go wrong before the money changes hands: a budget that forgot the running costs, a car bought without a proper look underneath, or paperwork that did not match the car. This section takes you through buying in order, from deciding whether a classic is for you to getting it home.

The essentials

Budget for more than the price. At auction the buyer pays a premium on top of the hammer price, plus VAT on that premium where it applies. Allow for insurance, transport, somewhere dry to keep the car and a fund for the repairs that almost every newly bought classic needs.
Rust matters more than mechanics. Engines and gearboxes can usually be rebuilt or replaced. Rust in the structure (sills, floors, chassis rails, jacking points and suspension mountings) is often the most expensive problem a classic can have, and the easiest to hide.
Look before you buy. Inspect the car yourself, or pay someone who knows the model to do it. At Mathewsons the viewing week before each sale is when you can do this, and every lot is sold as seen.
Check the car is what the paperwork says. The VIN or chassis number on the car should match the V5C log book. The free GOV.UK MOT history service shows past test results and recorded mileage for cars tested in Great Britain since 2005 (Northern Ireland since 2017).
Check identity and history. A vehicle history check shows outstanding finance, insurance write-offs and stolen-vehicle markers recorded against the registration.
Pay safely. Pay the auction house or the seller directly, by a method you can trace. Never pay a third party, a "holding account" or an escrow service suggested by the seller.
Insure it before you drive it. You need insurance from the moment you take the car on the road, including the drive home.

Pages in this section

Coming to this section

Your first classic car; the real cost of owning a classic; project, runner or restored; where to buy; buying at auction; buying online and unseen; rust, where to look; mechanical checks and the test drive; paperwork and history; identity checks and avoiding a ringer; reading price guides; paying and avoiding fraud; importing a classic; buying a car with no V5C.

FAQs

What should I check first when buying a classic car?: The structure. Rust in the sills, floors, chassis rails and suspension mountings is usually the most expensive fault to put right. After that, check that the VIN or chassis number matches the V5C and look at the car's MOT history on GOV.UK.
Can I test drive a car at a classic car auction?: Usually not. Auction cars are generally sold as seen, so the viewing is your chance to inspect the car, listen to it run where the auction house allows, and look underneath.
Do I need insurance to drive a newly bought classic home?: Yes. A car must be insured to be driven on the road, so arrange cover before you collect it, or have it transported.

Checked 13 October 2026 against GOV.UK (Check MOT history, Vehicle registration certificate V5C), Mathewsons' planning-a-visit page and lot descriptions, and Report Fraud guidance.

An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.