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Daimler SP250 (1959 to 1964)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.
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Overview
The SP250 was a surprising departure for Daimler, a Coventry company better known for formal saloons and limousines. It was unveiled at the New York motor show in April 1959 under the name Dart, but Chrysler already used that name for a Dodge, so the car went on sale as the SP250, a reference to its 2.5-litre engine. Owners and enthusiasts still call it the Dart.
Its specification was advanced for a British sports car of the day: a glassfibre two-seater body on a separate steel chassis, disc brakes on all four wheels and a compact hemispherical-head V8 designed by Edward Turner, the engineer behind some of Triumph's best-known motorcycles. That engine is the reason most people buy one. It is smooth, eager to rev and gives the car relaxed, long-legged cruising ability, with contemporary figures quoting a top speed of around 120mph.
Jaguar bought Daimler in 1960 and kept the SP250 in production, strengthening it in 1961 to cure the body flex of the first cars. A planned successor was abandoned and the model ended in 1964, by which time it was competing for showroom attention with Jaguar's own E-type. Today it is valued for its engine, its rarity and its unusual looks, which divided opinion when new and still do. The steering is heavy at parking speeds and the gearbox is the weakest part of the drivetrain.
Key facts
- Built: 1959 to 1964 (announced April 1959, UK launch September 1959, production ended September 1964)
- Body: two-seat open sports car in glassfibre on a steel chassis; a factory hardtop was offered from October 1960
- Engine: 2,548cc overhead-valve V8 with alloy cylinder heads and a cast-iron block, 140bhp at 5,800rpm and 155lb ft at 3,600rpm
- Gearboxes: four-speed manual with no synchromesh on first gear; three-speed Borg Warner automatic, first for export and police use, then offered to UK private buyers from early 1961
- Brakes: discs all round with a fly-off handbrake
- Production: sources differ slightly, quoting 2,645, 2,648 or 2,654 cars in total. One guide gives 1,445 right-hand-drive cars
Versions and changes to know
- A-spec (1959 to 1961): The original car. Lighter and simpler, but prone to chassis and body flex, with reports of doors opening during hard cornering. Early cars have recesses behind the door handles. Many have since been brought up to B-spec chassis standard.
- October 1960: Factory hardtop becomes available.
- B-spec (from April 1961): Stiffened chassis and body, including a hoop under the dashboard tied through the A-posts to the sill beams and extra bracing at the B-posts. Stronger rear axle, adjustable steering column, full-width bumpers with overriders, reserve fuel tank, screen washers and revised trim.
- Police cars (from 1961): B-spec cars with automatic transmission, used for motorway patrol work.
- C-spec (1963 to 1964): Heater and demister made standard, plus a cigarette lighter and a trickle charger socket. Sources date its introduction to February or April 1963, so a 1963 car could be either a late B-spec or an early C-spec. Check the chassis number with the club.
- SP252: A restyled successor was developed but never put into production.
What to look for
Bodywork and structure
The glassfibre body cannot rust, but it can crack and craze. Look closely around the door, boot and bonnet hinges, the door handles and the area ahead of the windscreen, where stress cracks are most common, especially on A-spec cars. The bonnet can crack through flexing, and the area around its front safety catch is a known weak point. Ripples, raised lines under the paint, poor panel fit or uneven gaps all suggest accident repair or hurried filler work.
The steel chassis is the bigger concern. With a torch, examine the tubular front crossmember that carries the front body mounts and the steering box, as it corrodes badly. Check the front suspension turrets, the sill beams under the door openings and, on B-spec and later cars, the B-post bracing. At the rear, look at the spring hangers, the crossmember behind the axle and the two supplementary beams. These rear members are often bent because people use them as jacking points. Look for cracking at the lower wishbone mounting brackets, which dirt can hide. Complete new chassis are not available, though repair sections are.
Engine
A puff of smoke on start-up is normal, because the engine was built without valve stem seals. Persistent heavy smoke points to worn rings or bores. A noisy top end may simply need adjusting, but it can also mean valve guides have moved in the heads. The aluminium heads suffer internal corrosion where antifreeze has been neglected, so look for coolant leaks, check the coolant condition and look under the oil filler cap for white emulsion. Sources suggest roughly 15 to 20psi at a warm idle and around 35 to 45psi at speed. If the engine can be started at the viewing, watch the gauge. Exhaust valves can stick or carbon up, giving lumpy running.
Gearbox and drivetrain
The four-speed manual is a Triumph-derived unit and the drivetrain's weak spot. Listen for whine, clicking or chattering in first gear (which suggests worn or damaged gear teeth), and ask whether it jumps out of gear. Overdrive was not a factory option according to most guides, so any overdrive is a later addition and should be shown to work. Automatics should pull away in second, which is normal, and change smoothly. The earliest rear axles have a weaker crownwheel and pinion; listen for whine and look for oil leaking where the axle tubes meet the casing.
Suspension, steering and brakes
The front trunnions and vertical links wear quickly if not greased regularly, and a damaged vertical link is costly. If the car can be raised, check for play. Leaf springs sag, so the car should sit level with roughly six inches of ground clearance. Check the rear lever-arm dampers for leaks. The original steering box is slow and heavy, and many cars now have rack and pinion conversions using Triumph parts; make sure any conversion looks professionally done. The disc brakes are generally good, but the fly-off handbrake mechanism wears or seizes, and handbrake cables seize on stored cars. Inspect wire wheels for loose or broken spokes and worn splines, and steel wheels for cracking around the stud holes.
Electrics and interior
Most cars use a dynamo, which struggles at low revs; only a few late C-spec cars had alternators, so beware of extra electrical loads added without an upgrade. Look for brittle wiring and corroded terminals. Few cars still have their original trim, but the interior is simple and trim parts are available.
Identity and paperwork
Confirm whether the car is A, B or C-spec, and whether an early car has been upgraded. Ask for evidence of chassis work, body repairs and any steering or gearbox conversions. The owners' clubs can help with dating and originality.
Ownership today
Mechanical parts are well supported, with many suspension and brake items shared with contemporary Triumph TRs. A small number of specialists reproduce chassis repair sections and supply trim, hoods and body panels, and glassfibre repair is a skill worth seeking out rather than leaving to a general bodyshop. Exchange cylinder heads are available. The Daimler SP250 Owners Club (daimlersp250dartownersclub.com (opens in a new tab)) focuses solely on the model, and the Daimler and Lanchester Owners' Club (dloc.org.uk (opens in a new tab)) has a dedicated SP250 section.
Questions to ask before you bid
- Is it an A, B or C-spec car, and has an early chassis been upgraded?
- What chassis repairs have been done, particularly to the front crossmember, turrets and rear crossmembers, and is there photographic evidence?
- Has the glassfibre body been repaired or resprayed, and by whom?
- Is the steering original or a rack and pinion conversion, and is any overdrive original or retrofitted?
- What is the engine's history, including cylinder head work, coolant changes and recent oil pressure readings?
Sources
- Buyer's guide: Daimler SP250 Dart (Hagerty UK) (opens in a new tab)
- Daimler SP250 buyer's guide (Classics World) (opens in a new tab)
- Buying Guide: Daimler SP250 (Drives Today) (opens in a new tab)
- Daimler Dart buying guide and review 1959 to 1964 (Auto Express) (opens in a new tab)
- SP250 (Daimler and Lanchester Owners' Club) (opens in a new tab)
- The Daimler SP250 Owners Club (Car and Classic club listing) (opens in a new tab)
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An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.