Ford Escort Mk3 and Mk4 (1980 to 1990)

The third-generation Escort, developed under the codename Erika, arrived in September 1980 and marked a clean break from the rear-wheel-drive Mk1 and Mk2. Ford switched to front-wheel drive, a hatchback body, independent rear suspension and the new overhead-cam CVH engine, aiming squarely at the Volkswagen Golf. It worked: the Mk3 became Britain's best-selling car, and the facelifted Mk4 of 1986 kept it in the showrooms until the Mk5 took over in 1990.

The range ran from basic Popular and L models through GL and the plush Ghia, with its extra trim, door bins and equipment, to the sporting XR3, XR3i, the limited-run RS1600i and the RS Turbo. A Karmann-built Cabriolet joined in 1983 and proved a period favourite. Driven today, a healthy Escort feels light and easy, though the CVH engine is buzzy and unrefined when worked hard and the gearchange is notchy. Hot versions are quick for their size but reward a well-sorted chassis; tired bushes make them feel soggy.

Their reputation is mixed. These cars were cheap, plentiful and often thrashed, modified or left to rot, so good original survivors are now scarce. A well-kept Ghia or XR3i is an authentic slice of 1980s Britain, but rust and missing trim are the big risks.

• Years built: Mk3 from September 1980; Mk4 facelift from January 1986; replaced by the Mk5 in 1990.
• Body styles: three- and five-door hatchback, estate (a five-door estate arrived in 1983 according to Classics World), van, and the Karmann-built Cabriolet from 1983.
• Engines (Mk3): 1.1 Valencia overhead-valve unit as the entry engine; 1.3 and 1.6 CVH overhead-cam engines. The 1,596cc XR3 gave 96bhp on a twin-choke Weber carburettor.
• Engines (Mk4): 1.4 and 1.6 lean-burn CVH units replaced the earlier 1.3 and 1.6 CVH. Injected XR3i figures quoted by Classic & Sports Car run from about 105bhp (Bosch mechanical injection) to 108bhp (later Ford electronic injection); the same source quotes slightly different figures in different places.
• Gearboxes: four-speed manual on early cars; five-speed manual from 1982, standard on XR models from then.
• Production: sources vary and rarely say what they are counting. Classic & Sports Car gives about 150,000 for the sporting cars of this generation, and Motorious gives roughly 60,000 Karmann Cabriolets. Treat both as approximate.

• 1980: Mk3 launched with Popular, L, GL and Ghia trims, plus the carburettor XR3 with four-speed gearbox.
• 1982: five-speed gearbox arrives (February). RS1600i appears, followed by the fuel-injected XR3i in the autumn with revised gearing, lower suspension and new trim.
• 1983: Karmann Cabriolet launched, the injected version badged 1.6i (Classic & Sports Car gives October 1983; Motorious says it went on sale in 1984). Five-door estate added.
• 1984: RS Turbo joins the range.
• 1986: Mk4 facelift with revised styling, new interior and 1.4 lean-burn CVH. The Cabriolet takes XR3i badging; anti-lock brakes (Ford's SCS system) become an option. Mk4 XR3i sits a little higher than the Mk3.
• 1987: revised gearbox with a new external selector mechanism to improve the change.
• 1988: power-operated hood offered on the Cabriolet.
• 1989: Ford electronic injection replaces Bosch on the XR3i (look for EFI lettering on the inlet manifold), with colour-coded bumpers, new trim and a revised rear spoiler and wheels.

Bodywork and structure

• The battery tray and bulkhead are the classic rot spots. A damp front carpet, especially on the passenger side, is a strong hint of trouble here.
• Check the rear inner arches, rear chassis rails, sills (blocked drains cause rot from inside), floorpan and boot floor, front crossmember, behind the headlamps and around the front mounts of the rear trailing arms.
• Visible rust shows at door bottoms, wing tips by the indicators, the bonnet's leading edge, roof gutters, tailgate seams and hinges.
• Bubbling around a sunroof suggests blocked drains. Windscreen seals leak into the floors.
• Body kits on XR models can hide damage and trap water. Look for rippled inner wings, overspray on rubbers and uneven panel gaps as signs of crash repair.
• Cabriolet: expect some scuttle shake. Check the hood fabric, frame and seals, and lift the carpets for water. Hood fabric is relatively easy to renew.

Engine

• CVH units run well past 100,000 miles if the oil and cambelt have been changed. Ford's interval was 36,000 miles; many specialists advise around 20,000.
• A rattling top end points to sludged hydraulic tappets, which can wear the camshaft. Heavy breathing and blue smoke on the overrun suggest worn guides or valve stem seals. Check the filler cap for white emulsion (head gasket).
• XR3i Bosch K-Jetronic injection is usually durable, but a seized fuel metering unit makes the car run rich or lean. Poor idling suggests a gummed-up metering head. Non-starting can be the pink injection relay; cutting out when warm can be a crank sensor on EFI cars.
• Early variable venturi carburettors on lesser models gave trouble; many have been converted.
• On a 1.1 Valencia engine, listen for a noisy timing chain or clacking followers.

Gearbox and drivetrain

• Notchiness is normal, but difficulty selecting gears points to a worn linkage or selector. Jumping out of gear means selector wear.
• A noisy fifth can mean the gear has come loose on the input shaft and damaged its splines. A rumble that rises with road speed suggests mainshaft bearings.
• A clicking clutch pedal often means the plastic self-adjusting ratchet is failing.
• Click on full lock indicates worn CV joints; check gaiters for splits.

Suspension, steering and brakes

• Worn track control arm bushes cause vague steering, clunks and uneven tyre wear. Check the arm mountings for cracks.
• Wheel bearings wear relatively quickly, especially on wide wheels.
• Cars that have stood often have seized rear wheel cylinders and sticking calipers. Inspect brake pipes closely.
• On lowered cars, check the springs and dampers are a matched set and ride height is not excessive. On ABS cars, erratic operation is often a worn drive belt.

Electrics and interior

• Dashboards crack above the instruments and around the vents; Ghia door bins crack at their mountings; glovebox lids bow.
• Door cards go baggy and driver's seat bolsters wear. Original XR seat cloth, uncut parcel shelves and good trim are now hard to find, and most trim is second-hand only.
• Electric windows, central locking and rear lights often fail through poor earths. Test the steering column stalks.

Identity and paperwork

• Genuine XR3i and Cabriolet specification matters more than ever. Check that the VIN on the slam panel plate, the number stamped on the inner sill under the carpet flap and the V5C all agree.
• Check the engine code and specification against the claimed model and year; injected engines have been swapped into lesser cars and vice versa. Be cautious of limited-edition Cabriolets, as some claimed special editions are ordinary cars repainted.
• Ask for evidence of cambelt changes and any rust repairs.

Mechanical parts, service items, suspension and brake components are widely available, including polyurethane bushes and brake upgrades. Some repair panels are made, but original trim, side mouldings, Cabriolet-specific parts and injection components are increasingly scarce. Classic Ford specialists and the Ford enthusiast scene, including major events, are a useful source of knowledge and parts. The XR Owners Club (www.xroc.co.uk), founded in 1983, caters for XR models including the XR3 and XR3i.

• When was the cambelt last changed, and is there a receipt?
• Has the battery tray, bulkhead or sill area been repaired, and can you see photographs of the work?
• Do the VIN plate, the stamped sill number, the engine and the V5C all match the claimed model?
• On a Cabriolet, does the hood leak, and is the frame and any power mechanism working properly?
• What has been modified or replaced from standard, and are the original parts included?