Morris Ten Series M (1938 to 1948)

The Ten Series M was a landmark for Morris Motors: the first Morris built with unitary construction, in which the steel body and chassis form a single structure, at a time when few British cars used the method. Introduced in 1938 for the important 10 horsepower class, one of the best-selling segments of the British market, it looked much like the smaller Series E Eight but was new underneath. Its 1,140cc overhead-valve engine was closely related to the XPAG unit that went on to power the MG TC, and it gained a pressurised cooling system, full-flow oil filtration and an automatic timing chain tensioner. A four-speed gearbox, unusual in its class, and Lockheed hydraulic brakes completed the package.

Production was interrupted by the Second World War, when the mechanicals were also used in a pick-up "Tilly" utility vehicle for military service, and resumed afterwards with a rounder grille. It was replaced by the Morris Oxford MO in October 1948.

Driving one today, the engine is flexible and willing and the gearbox well spaced, but hills need a run at them and the car is happiest cruising at 50 to 55mph. The ride on long leaf springs is surprisingly good and an anti-roll bar keeps roll in check, though the steering wanders slightly and the hydraulic brakes need anticipation. Its reputation is as one of the better small family cars of its era. Rust is the serious enemy of surviving cars.

• Years built: 1938 to 1948 (Classic & Sports Car's table gives a 1939 start; some sources treat it as a 1939 model year car).
• Body style: four-door saloon for civilian buyers, with an optional sliding roof; two-door pick-up for wartime military use only.
• Engine: 1,140cc four-cylinder overhead-valve, single SU carburettor, 37bhp at 4,600rpm. Sources differ on the name: Classic & Sports Car calls it the XPAG, while Classic Car Weekly describes it as a close sister to the XPAG and Wikipedia calls it the X-series.
• Gearbox: four-speed manual with Borg and Beck single dry-plate clutch.
• Brakes: Lockheed hydraulic drums.
• Suspension: beam axles front and rear on leaf springs, with a front anti-roll bar.
• Wheelbase 94in; top speed around 62mph.
• Production: 27,020 pre-war and 53,566 post-war according to Wikipedia, motor-car.net and RM Sotheby's. Classic & Sports Car gives 80,990 for post-war production in one entry and 27,020 in another, which does not reconcile with the other figures.
• Also assembled in India as the Hindustan 10.

• 1938: Series M launched with the traditional Morris grille and badge.
• Wartime: about 9,000 utility pick-ups ("Tillies") built (Classic & Sports Car).
• Post-war: revised, rounder grille blended into the bonnet side panels, without the Morris badge on top. Wikipedia says cars built before late 1945 keep the earlier grille, while Classic & Sports Car dates the new grille to September 1946. A 1947 car should have the later grille.
• October 1948: replaced by the Morris Oxford MO.
• Independent front suspension and rack and pinion steering designed for the Ten were shelved and later appeared on the MG Y-type.

Bodywork and structure

• As a monocoque, the body is the chassis. Rust in sills, floors, crossmembers and around the spring mounting points affects strength and roadworthiness, not just looks. Classic & Sports Car singles out rust as a serious problem for survivors.
• Check the sills from outside and underneath, the floorpans under the carpets, the boot floor, the bottoms of the doors and the wheelarches. Look closely at where the front and rear springs attach to the body.
• Use a magnet on lower panels to find filler, and look for overlapping patch repairs.
• Unlike the Morris Eight, the Series M does not rely on a structural wooden body frame, so the steel itself is what you are assessing.
• Check door fit and hinges; the doors are rear-hinged, so a door that opens when moving is a safety issue.

Engine

• The engine is robust and parts remain available thanks to its relationship with the XPAG family.
• With a pressurised cooling system and no temperature gauge on the dashboard, overheating can go unnoticed. Check the radiator, hoses and pressure cap, and look for oil in the water or water in the oil.
• Listen for timing chain rattle from the front of the engine.
• Check oil pressure on the gauge; motor-car.net gives 40 to 60lb when hot as the normal range.
• Look for blue smoke and heavy breathing from the filler cap, signs of worn bores or guides.

Gearbox and drivetrain

• The four-speed gearbox has a long, spindly lever. Check that each gear selects cleanly and does not jump out.
• The clutch should be light and should bite smoothly without judder.
• Listen for back axle whine and check for oil leaks at the axle and gearbox.

Suspension, steering and brakes

• Some steering wander is normal, but excessive free play points to a worn steering box, kingpins or track rod ends. Jack up the front if allowed and rock each wheel.
• Inspect leaf springs, shackles and the anti-roll bar mounts.
• The Lockheed hydraulic brakes are adequate rather than strong. Check for fluid leaks at the wheels, seized or rusty wheel cylinders and perished flexible hoses. The pedal should stay firm under steady pressure.

Electrics and interior

• Starting is by a pull switch, and the ignition switch is part of the light control; check both operate properly.
• Instruments are in two round clusters: speedometer, and a combined ammeter, oil pressure and fuel gauge. Make sure the ammeter shows a charge.
• Indicators are semaphore trafficators. Check they rise and fall freely, and note whether flashing indicators have been added.
• The sources consulted do not confirm the original system voltage, so check whether the car is still on its original electrical system and whether it has been converted.
• Inside, check the leather seats, door trims and the Bakelite dashboard and window surrounds, which can crack. The front windscreen opens via a winder; check its seal and mechanism.

Identity and paperwork

• Check the chassis number against the V5C and confirm the build year matches the grille type.
• Ask whether the engine is the original type, as XPAG-family swaps are possible.
• Look for any history of restoration and photographs of structural repairs.

Engine and many service parts are obtainable because of the link with the wider Nuffield engine family. Body panels are harder, and rust repair often means fabrication. The Morris Register (morrisregister.co.uk (opens in a new tab)) covers Morris vehicles designed before 1940, which includes the Series M, and offers a spares service, technical advice and an archive of period documents. General pre-war and post-war Morris specialists can also help with mechanical work.

• What structural welding has the bodyshell had, and where?
• Is the engine original to the car, and has it been converted for unleaded fuel?
• When was the cooling system last flushed and pressure tested?
• When were the brake wheel cylinders, master cylinder and hoses last replaced?
• Has the electrical system been rewired or modified, and do the trafficators work?