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Porsche 944 (1982 to 1992)

By Jon Cosson · Last checked

An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.

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Overview

The 944 grew out of the 924, Porsche's entry-level front-engined coupé, and was launched at the 1981 Frankfurt motor show, reaching UK customers in 1982. It kept the 924's basic structure and rear-mounted transaxle but gained flared wheelarches and, crucially, a Porsche-designed 2.5-litre four-cylinder engine. That engine is in effect half of the 928's V8, though few parts are shared, and it uses two counter-rotating balance shafts to smooth out the vibration normally associated with a large four.

With the engine up front and the gearbox at the back, weight distribution is close to even, and the 944 earned a reputation for balanced, approachable handling, a well-weighted chassis and real everyday usability. It sold strongly through the decade, more than 163,000 cars in all, and spawned the 16-valve S, the Turbo, the 3.0-litre S2 and the Cabriolet before the 968 replaced it in 1992.

Early eight-valve cars like the lot car are the simplest of the family. They have the original 924-style dashboard and the purer, lighter feel some enthusiasts prefer. The car's reputation today depends heavily on maintenance: the belts that drive the camshaft and balance shafts must be renewed on time, and a well-recorded 944 is a durable, rewarding car while a neglected one can be costly.

Key facts

  • Built: 1982 to 1992 (UK deliveries from April 1982; Porsche Club GB says base 944 production ended in July 1989 and the last S2 and Turbo cars were built in July 1991, before the 968 took over)
  • Body: three-door 2+2 coupé with large glass tailgate; Cabriolet added from 1989 or 1990 depending on source
  • Engine (early 944): 2,479cc single overhead camshaft eight-valve four-cylinder with twin balance shafts, quoted at 161 to 163bhp depending on source. Bosch electronic fuel injection and engine management
  • Later engines: 2.5 16-valve S (about 190bhp), 2.5 Turbo (about 220bhp, later 250bhp), 2.7 eight-valve (about 165bhp), 3.0 S2 (about 211bhp)
  • Gearboxes: five-speed manual transaxle; three-speed automatic available on the eight-valve cars but uncommon
  • Production: 163,820 in total according to Classic and Sports Car; other sources say "over 163,000"

Versions and changes to know

  • 1982 to early 1985 (early 944): Original square-topped dashboard derived from the 924, low-set steering wheel and steel lower suspension arms with ball joints. The lot car falls in this group.
  • 1983: Power steering, electric sunroof, 16in alloy wheels and a sports suspension pack offered as options.
  • February 1985 (often called the 1985.5 car): Major update with a new oval-shaped dashboard and higher steering wheel. The 944 Turbo followed.
  • 1986 to 1987: ABS and sports suspension options; 16-valve 944S introduced. Standard car rated at about 160bhp from 1987.
  • 1988 to 1989: 2.7-litre engine replaces the 2.5 in the base car; limited Turbo S; catalytic converters become standard in the UK.
  • 1989 to 1991: S2 with 3.0-litre 16-valve engine, S2 Cabriolet, Turbo Cabriolet and UK-only SE.
  • 1992: Replaced by the 968.

What to look for

Bodywork and structure

The body is galvanised, which helps a great deal, but 944s still rust. Check the sills (they often rot from the inside out), the front and rear wheelarches, the wings, the front jacking points and the rear suspension and trailing arm mounts. Use a magnet or paint gauge on the lower front edge of the rear wings, where filler is common. Lift the boot carpet and check the right-hand rear wheelarch area: a perished drain hose from the fuel filler can let water collect there. Look for uneven shut lines and rippling in the boot floor, which indicate past accident damage. Guides also suggest checking the fuel tank on early cars.

Water leaks are almost universal on older 944s. Check the sunroof seals, the long tailgate seal and the seals around the tailgate pins, and feel the carpets for damp.

Engine

The camshaft and balance shaft belts are the critical item. Most guides recommend renewal every four years or around 48,000 miles (one source suggests three years or 40,000 miles), with the water pump usually changed at the same time. Ask for dated invoices. If the engine can be started, look for milky residue under the oil filler cap or in the coolant, which can point to a failed oil and coolant heat exchanger or head gasket. Smoke on start-up suggests valve stem seals; smoke while running is more serious. Classic and Sports Car suggests oil pressure of around 2 to 2.5 bar at hot idle. Vibration at idle can come from tired engine mounts; if the bottom radiator hose is touching the right-hand chassis leg, an engine mount has probably collapsed. Look for oil leaks from the engine and power steering. Starter motors are known to be weak even when healthy. Early cars had five-digit odometers, so verify any low mileage claims with paperwork.

Gearbox and drivetrain

Some whine from the transaxle is normal, but a pronounced whine can mean worn pinion or differential bearings. Notchy changes or worn synchromesh point to a rebuild. Clutches typically last around 70,000 to 80,000 miles, and the job is involved because the transaxle must come out; the rear crankshaft oil seal is usually renewed at the same time. Check for a leaking clutch master cylinder. A stiff gear linkage is common. Clicking or vibration on the move can indicate worn CV joints.

Suspension, steering and brakes

On early cars the ball joints are part of the lower arm, and they wear and can crack. Knocking or shake at the front suggests worn bushes or anti-roll bar links. A floaty feel suggests tired dampers or ball joints, and tramlining indicates a fault. Unassisted steering racks can wear; on assisted cars, leaks often come from the pipes or reservoir rather than the pump. Brake calipers seize on cars that have stood. Check alloy wheels for cracks and tyres for age.

Electrics and interior

Make sure the pop-up headlamps raise and lower properly. Test the electric windows, mirrors, sunroof and tailgate release. Low-mileage cars that have stood can suffer corrosion from condensation. Inside, check the driver's seat bolster and base for wear or collapse, and look at the dashboard top for sun cracks. Velour or cloth trim wears and can be hard to replace.

Identity and paperwork

Confirm that the chassis number and specification match an early 944, and that the dashboard and suspension are consistent with the build date. A thick history file showing belt and water pump changes and annual oil changes matters more on a 944 than on most classics.

Ownership today

Parts supply is good, with genuine, specialist and used parts widely available, and a large network of independent Porsche specialists across the UK who know the transaxle cars well. Expect belt changes and clutch work to be specialist jobs. The Porsche Club Great Britain (porscheclubgb.com (opens in a new tab)) runs a 944 register within its Classic registers, which provides advice and a buyer's guide.

Questions to ask before you bid

  • When were the camshaft and balance shaft belts and the water pump last renewed, and are there dated invoices?
  • Has the car had sill, wheelarch or rear suspension mount repairs?
  • Is the sunroof or tailgate leaking, and has the right-hand rear wheelarch area been checked for water?
  • When was the clutch last replaced, and has the transaxle ever been rebuilt?
  • Is the recorded mileage supported by MOT certificates and service records?

Sources

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