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Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T-series (1965 to 1980)

By Jon Cosson · Last checked

An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.

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Overview

The Silver Shadow, factory code SY, was launched in 1965 to replace the Silver Cloud. It was the first Rolls-Royce built as a steel monocoque rather than on a separate chassis, a big step that made it smaller outside yet roomier inside. The Bentley T, later called T1, was the same car with a Bentley grille, bonnet and badges, and was built in far smaller numbers.

Its most ambitious feature was a high-pressure hydraulic system, licensed from Citroën, powering the brakes and the self-levelling rear suspension. Power came from the familiar aluminium L-series pushrod V8, first at 6.2 litres and then 6.75 litres, driving through an automatic gearbox.

The Shadow is a quiet, soft and effortless car to drive, with light controls and a relaxed gait. The 1977 Shadow II and T2 gained rack-and-pinion steering and suspension changes that make them the better choice for modern traffic according to several guides. Over 40,000 Shadows and derivatives were made, which means many survive, but also that many have been run on a shoestring. Well-maintained cars are durable; neglected ones can be very costly to put right, with the hydraulics, rust and trim the main concerns.

Key facts

  • Years: September 1965 to June 1980 for the saloons. Two-door and convertible derivatives continued as the Corniche well beyond 1980.
  • Body styles: four-door saloon; long-wheelbase saloon from 1969/70; two-door saloon and drophead coupé by Mulliner Park Ward (renamed Corniche from 1971); a small number of James Young two-doors.
  • Engines: 6230cc V8 with twin SU carburettors; 6750cc V8 from the 1970 model year (sources say 1969 or 1970). Power figures are estimates: Hagerty gives about 200bhp for the 6.2 and 220bhp for the 6.75.
  • Gearboxes: four-speed GM Hydramatic on early UK cars (export cars used a three-speed); three-speed GM Turbo Hydramatic 400 for all later cars. Sources give the changeover as 1968, 1969 or 1970.
  • Brakes and suspension: discs all round, multiple independent hydraulic circuits, self-levelling rear.
  • Production: 40,991 according to Classics World; Hagerty says over 40,000. These figures appear to include the two-door derivatives.

Versions and changes to know

  • 1965: Silver Shadow and Bentley T four-door saloons.
  • 1966 to 1967: Two Door saloon, then drophead coupé, from Mulliner Park Ward.
  • 1968 to 1970: air conditioning standard; three-speed GM400 gearbox; 6.75-litre engine; long-wheelbase saloon with four inches more rear legroom.
  • 1971: two-door cars renamed Corniche; cruise control standard.
  • 1972 to 1975: compliant front suspension (1972), ventilated front discs (1973), flared wheelarches (1974), electronic ignition and split-level climate control (1975).
  • 1977: Silver Shadow II and Bentley T2 with rubber-faced bumpers, front air dam, rack-and-pinion steering, revised dashboard. The long-wheelbase car became the Silver Wraith II.
  • 1980: saloon replaced by the Silver Spirit.

What to look for

Bodywork and structure

  • Rust attacks the lowest few inches of the steel shell: sills (especially the front of each sill), wheelarches, front wings, front and rear valances, and the pans that hold the rear springs and dampers. These are structural.
  • The doors, bonnet and boot lid are aluminium. They do not rot like steel but corrode around handles and badges.
  • Look for bubbling at the windscreen and rear screen surrounds, and under any vinyl roof.
  • On chrome-bumper cars, the rear bumper corners can rot from inside because the bracket traps water.
  • Use a magnet to find filler, particularly in the arches. Be cautious of paint that looks too fresh on a cheap car; good welding is acceptable if properly done.
  • Re-chroming the large amount of brightwork is costly, so note any pitting.

Engine

  • A well-maintained V8 gives little trouble. Hydraulic tappet clatter is common; specialists favour genuine replacement parts.
  • Look for oil leaks at the rear of the engine. Early cars used an oil thrower rather than a proper rear crankshaft seal; a retrofit seal kit exists. Do not confuse this with a gearbox front pump seal leak at the bell housing.
  • Engine blocks can corrode internally, so look for evidence of regular coolant changes; a full rebuild means removing the liners.

Gearbox and drivetrain

  • The three-speed GM400 is regarded as robust and affordable to repair; the early four-speed is costlier.
  • Fluid should be bright red, not brown. With the engine running and the brakes on, shift between reverse and drive: a heavy clonk suggests differential or driveline wear.

Suspension, steering and brakes

  • This is the most important area. The car should sit level, not low at the rear or to one side. A hard or bouncy rear suggests tired height control spheres.
  • Two camshaft-driven pumps in the vee of the engine charge accumulator spheres. Loud knocking pumps or a knock under braking suggest a fault.
  • Both hydraulic warning lights should go out soon after starting. Sellers sometimes remove the bulbs, so check they illuminate with ignition on.
  • Check the reservoir sight glasses and confirm from the history that the system has been filled with the specified RR363 fluid. Rubber brake hoses perish internally and can cause calipers to bind.
  • Front ball joints can knock. Original-specification Avon tyres suggest a car that has been properly maintained.

Electrics and interior

  • Test every switch: window lifts, seat motors, central locking and air conditioning. Lucas parts are generally available, but compressor repairs are not cheap.
  • Leather can usually be restored; damaged or lifting wood veneer needs a professional and indicates damp. Check carpets and that all chrome fittings are present.

Identity and paperwork

  • Confirm whether the car is a Rolls-Royce or Bentley, standard or long wheelbase, and Series I or II, against its records. A Bentley grille can be fitted to a Rolls-Royce and vice versa.
  • The marque clubs can often help trace a car's build records by chassis number.
  • A thick history file showing regular hydraulic and brake work is worth more than a low mileage.

Ownership today

Parts supply is broadly good, with mechanical, electrical, hydraulic and trim parts available from several established marque specialists, and switches shared with later models. The hydraulics should be serviced by someone experienced, as the system runs at very high pressure. These cars dislike standing unused, and a regularly driven higher-mileage car is often healthier than a low-mileage one that has sat. The Rolls-Royce Enthusiasts' Club (https://rrec.org.uk) covers both Rolls-Royce and Bentley cars of this era, and the Bentley Drivers Club (https://www.bdcl.org) is the long-established club for Bentley owners.

Questions to ask before you bid

  • When was the hydraulic system last overhauled, including hoses, accumulators and pumps, and is there an invoice?
  • Has the structure been welded, and where? Are there photographs of the sills and rear spring pans?
  • Which gearbox and engine does it have, and has the rear crankshaft oil seal been upgraded?
  • Do both hydraulic warning lamps work and go out after starting?
  • Does the air conditioning blow cold, and do all electric seats and windows work?

Sources

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An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.