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Toyota MR2 Mk1, AW11 (1984 to 1989)

By Jon Cosson · Last checked

An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.

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Overview

The first MR2 was Japan's first mass-produced mid-engined car and one of the defining affordable sports cars of the 1980s. The name stands for Midship Runabout two-seater. Toyota showed it as the SV-3 concept at the 1983 Tokyo motor show and began production in 1984, with UK sales starting in 1985. Development involved extensive testing in the United States, and while Toyota's links with Lotus at the time are often credited with shaping the suspension, sources disagree on how much Lotus actually contributed.

The formula is simple: a compact, wedge-shaped steel two-seater weighing just under a tonne, with a 1.6-litre twin-cam 16-valve engine mounted behind the cabin and driving the rear wheels. UK cars used the 122bhp 4A-GE, a free-revving engine that needs to be worked hard but rewards it. Testers praised the quick, precise steering, the grip and a surprisingly supple ride, though the cabin is noisy at motorway speeds and taller drivers may find it cramped.

The T-bar version, with two removable glass roof panels either side of a central spine, added a taste of open-air motoring, and came with leather trim in the UK. The MR2's reputation is for mechanical toughness let down by rust, and the T-bar adds the risk of leaks. Toyota built 166,104 first-generation cars, but only around 13,500 were sold new in the UK.

Key facts

  • Built: 1984 to 1989 (some sources say 1990, when the Mk2 arrived); UK sales from 1985
  • Body: two-seat mid-engined coupé, with fixed roof, sunroof or T-bar (two removable glass panels) versions
  • Engine (UK): 1.6-litre 4A-GE twin-cam 16-valve with electronic fuel injection and TVIS variable intake system, 122bhp at 6,600rpm and 105lb ft at 5,000rpm
  • Other engines: 1.5-litre (83bhp) in the Japan-only AW10; supercharged 4A-GZE (about 145bhp) for Japan, seen in the UK only as personal or grey imports
  • Gearboxes: five-speed manual (C50, then the stronger C52 from the 1986 to 1987 update); optional four-speed automatic
  • Suspension and brakes: MacPherson struts and disc brakes at all four corners; no ABS
  • Production: 166,104 Mk1 cars in total; Hagerty quotes 13,579 UK sales and Classics World about 13,500

Versions and changes to know

  • 1984 to 1985: Launch cars, now known as Mk1a. Early UK cars have a black front bumper insert, three-spoke alloy wheels and the radio aerial on the roof.
  • Late 1985 to 1986: T-bar roof added. Hagerty dates UK availability to October 1985, while Octane says 1986. UK T-bar cars came with leather trim as standard.
  • Late 1986 to 1987 (Mk1b): Sources date the update to late 1986 or 1987. Changes include the stronger C52 gearbox, a more heavily ribbed engine block (seven ribs instead of three), red rather than blue cam cover lettering, revised rear suspension to make the car more forgiving at the limit, a thicker rear anti-roll bar, improved brakes, a body-coloured front bumper insert and headlamp eyebrows, revised rear lights, multi-hole alloy wheels and the aerial moved to the rear wing. Cars built around the changeover can carry a mixture of parts, so check before ordering spares. A 1988 car should be a Mk1b.
  • 1989 to 1990: Replaced by the larger Mk2 (SW20).

What to look for

Bodywork and structure

Rust is the main enemy. Start with the rear wheelarches, then the sills and jacking points, which are hidden behind plastic covers, so ask whether the covers have been off. Check the front wheelarches, lower front wings, door bottoms, the bases of the A and B-pillars, floorpans, the rear subframe mountings and the rear valance. Look under the front bumper at the crash bar and its seams, and at the front slam panel. In the front luggage area, check the front corners, spare wheel well and liner seams. Bubbling around the windscreen surround and front roof section is common, especially on sunroof and T-bar cars where blocked drain holes trap water. Fibreglass front wings have been fitted to some cars as a cheap repair.

On a T-bar car, inspect the seals around both glass panels and the central spine, check the headlining and carpets for water staining or a musty smell, and make sure both panels and their storage provision behind the seats are present. Replacement seals are available but not cheap, and leaks left untreated lead quickly to rust.

Engine

The 4A-GE is durable if serviced. Ask for evidence of cambelt changes, recommended at 60,000 miles or every five to six years, and valve clearance checks at similar intervals. Tapping from the top of the engine means the valves need adjusting now. Oil changes every 5,000 miles were Toyota's advice. Look for oil leaks at the distributor O-ring and the sump, which can also be porous. Check the radiator, coolant condition (Toyota's red coolant is preferred), and the cooling fans. Air trapped in the coolant system is a known issue and can upset the temperature sensor, causing a lumpy idle. A sticking idle control valve can also cause uneven idling, and is often cured by cleaning. The fuel pump sits inside the tank, so a failure there is a more involved repair than it sounds.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The five-speed manual is precise but needs a deliberate action. The known fault is jumping out of fifth gear, which affects the early C50 most but can occur on the C52 too. First and second synchromesh can wear, giving crunchy changes. At a static viewing, you can at least check that all gears select cleanly with the engine off. Gearbox oil should be changed every two to three years.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Check for corroded brake discs and pipes and for sticking calipers, especially on cars that have stood. Worn dampers and drop links are common. Mk1a and Mk1b rear suspension parts differ. Uneven tyre wear suggests the car needs a four-wheel alignment check. Steering racks can be reconditioned.

Electrics and interior

Test the pop-up headlamps, which can seize, along with the electric aerial (a known weak point), electric windows and the driver's door switch pack, which is hard to find now. If the heater fan only works on some settings, the resistor pack has probably failed. Check the wiper linkage. Some interior trim, including original cloth, is no longer available new, so condition matters. Early central locking may only unlock the driver's door from the key, which is normal. Look for the original tool kit in the front compartment, and check that the rear spoiler fixings are intact.

Identity and paperwork

Confirm that the car is a genuine UK-supplied example, as Japanese imports are common and differ in specification. Check that it matches the T-bar and Mk1b features expected of the year, and that the VIN and engine details agree with the registration document.

Ownership today

Mechanical parts for the 4A-GE and running gear are generally easy to find, and some body repair panels, including rear arch sections, are still available, although certain trim items and switches are now used-only. There are several independent MR2 specialists in the UK. Two clubs cover the car: the MR2 Drivers' Club (mr2dc.com (opens in a new tab)), which is recognised by Toyota, and the MR2 Owners Club (mr2oc.co.uk (opens in a new tab)), which has a Mk1 section and forum.

Questions to ask before you bid

  • Is it a UK-supplied car, and is it a Mk1b with the later C52 gearbox?
  • Have the sill covers been removed to inspect the sills and jacking points, and what welding has been done?
  • Does the T-bar roof leak, and have the seals been replaced?
  • When were the cambelt, valve clearances and coolant last done?
  • Does the gearbox stay in fifth under load?

Sources

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