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Triumph Spitfire (1962 to 1980)
By Jon Cosson · Last checked
The Triumph Spitfire (1962 to 1980) is a small two-seat sports car with a Michelotti body on a shortened Herald chassis, made in five versions over 18 years. Parts are plentiful and the car is simple to work on, but rot in the sills and body, and the quality of past repairs, matter most.
At a glance
- Years
- 1962 to 1980 (Spitfire 4, later known as the Mk1, launched October 1962; Mk2 in the mid-1960s; Mk3 1967; Mk IV 1970; 1500 on sale in the UK from 1974; production ended in 1980)
- Body styles
- two-seat open sports car with folding hood
- Engines
- Triumph overhead-valve four-cylinder: 1147cc (Mk1 and Mk2), 1296cc (Mk3 and Mk IV) and 1493cc (1500)
- Built in
- Canley, Coventry, England
Why people buy one
- More than 314,000 were built, so there is a wide choice of cars and a large owner base.
- Bolt-on body panels on a separate chassis make repairs simpler than on many monocoque sports cars, and almost all parts are available.
- The Mk IV and 1500 have an all-synchromesh gearbox and revised rear suspension that reduces the early cars' tendency to tuck a rear wheel under.
- The 1500 has the largest engine, extra torque and a stronger gearbox than earlier cars.
- The Triumph Sports Six Club was founded in 1977 for the Herald-based cars, including the Spitfire, and now covers every Triumph model.
What to weigh up
- Rust is the main enemy: the sills add much of the body's strength and most cars will have had welding, so judge the quality of that work.
- Mk1 to Mk3 cars use a swing-axle rear end that can tuck the outside wheel under in hard cornering and cause sudden oversteer.
- Mk1 to Mk3 gearboxes have no synchromesh on first gear.
- Overdrive was an option and many cars have it; Classic & Sports Car describes cars without it as undergeared.
- US-market cars differ in detail, with emissions equipment and less power, so check the specification of any imported car.
- The GT6 and the Herald are separate cars and are covered in their own guides.
Where they rust
- Sills, especially the leading edges and where they meet the rear wings; they carry much of the body's strength.
- Floors, footwells and the boot floor.
- Chassis outriggers under the bulkhead, the main rails and the front of the chassis ahead of the suspension, which can also show accident damage.
- The large one-piece bonnet, especially around the headlamps.
- The front valance, which rots quickly on Mk IV and 1500 cars; many have been replaced in glassfibre.
- Rear quarters, rear wheelarches and the area under the rear bumper.
- Windscreen frame and A-posts, and the battery box, a known rot spot.
- Uneven door gaps or poor panel fit, which can point to a twisted shell or a poor restoration.
Mechanical weak spots
- Worn crankshaft thrust washers can wreck the block; watch the front pulley for fore-and-aft movement while someone presses the clutch. Mk IV cars are said to be especially prone.
- A rattle on start-up can mean worn big ends, often linked to an oil filter without a non-return valve; the 1500 can also suffer crankshaft, piston and ring wear, shown by blue smoke.
- Gearboxes suffer weak synchromesh and bearing wear: rumbling suggests bearings and whining suggests worn gears. Overdrive faults are usually electrical or a low oil level.
- The front trunnions need regular EP90 oil; neglect leads to wear or seizure and can snap the kingpin. Also check the anti-roll bar links, wheel bearings and steering rack.
- Rear wheel bearings need a press to replace and worn ones can damage the halfshaft; a rear wheel tucked up inside the arch means a tired rear spring.
- Vibration or clonks point to worn universal joints in the propshaft or driveshafts, and the differential can whine or leak.
At a Mathewsons viewing
- Check the commission (chassis) number and engine number against the V5C, and ask whether there is a British Motor Museum Heritage Certificate, which records the car's factory build details.
- Look underneath with a torch at the outriggers, chassis rails and front of the chassis, and judge the quality of any welding on the sills and floors.
- Lift the carpets and press the floors, footwells and boot floor for soft metal, damp or fresh underseal, which can hide rot.
- Tilt the bonnet forward and look at its edges, the headlamp surrounds, the valance and the battery box, and for oil or coolant leaks.
- Check the hood fits and seals and look for damp trim; if staff start the car, listen for a start-up rattle or knocks and watch for smoke; do not assume it will be started.
Parts, specialists and clubs
Almost all mechanical parts, trim and body panels are available, and the Spitfire shares much with the Herald, GT6 and other small Triumphs. Most cars have been restored or repaired at some point, so the quality of past work matters more than a shiny finish. The Triumph Sports Six Club and Club Triumph offer technical advice, and a Heritage Certificate from the British Motor Museum confirms a car's factory specification.
Our sister site: Triumph Stag Archive
Seen on Bangers & Cash
- 1966 Triumph Spitfire (Bangers & Cash series 3, episode 2, First shown October 2020)
Sources
- Buyer's guide: Triumph Spitfire (Classic & Sports Car), 10 May 2019
- Buying Guide: Triumph Spitfire, 1962 to 1980 (Hagerty UK), 3 February 2021
- Triumph Spitfire buyer's guide (Classics World), 8 September 2022
- Triumph Spitfire Buyers Guide (Classic Car Hub), 18 April 2026
- Triumph Spitfire buying guide and review, 1962 to 1980 (Auto Express), 5 November 2018
- First Triumph Spitfire Up For Sale (Just British), 31 October 2013
- Join the club: Triumph Sports Six Club (Hagerty UK), 19 April 2021
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An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.