Skip to content

Thinking of bidding?

Vauxhall PA Cresta and Velox (1957 to 1962)

By Jon Cosson · Last checked

An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.

Email me when a Vauxhall PA Cresta or Velox is in a Mathewsons sale

Email alerts are coming soon.

Overview

The PA series was Vauxhall's big six-cylinder saloon from the autumn of 1957 until the PB replaced it in October 1962. Built at Luton by the General Motors-owned company, it was styled very much in the American idiom of the period, with a wrap-around "dog's leg" windscreen, a panoramic rear window, tail fins and a generous helping of chrome. The Velox was the core model and the Cresta its better-equipped sister, with richer trim, extra brightwork and two-tone paint options.

Underneath the drama the car was conventional: a unitary body, coil and wishbone independent front suspension, a live rear axle on leaf springs and a six-cylinder overhead-valve engine driving through a three-speed column-change gearbox. A bench front seat meant six could travel in comfort. The original 2.2-litre six gave strong low-speed torque and a top speed close to 90mph, and the 2.6-litre unit from 1960 added useful extra performance.

The PA has become one of the most recognisable British cars of its era, a symbol of late-1950s optimism, and enjoys a strong following today. Its reputation rests on its looks, its comfortable, relaxed manner and a durable engine. The flip side is that the bodies rotted badly, minimal factory rustproofing and leaking screen seals being the main culprits, and many cars have been lost or extensively modified.

Key facts

  • Years built: announced 2 October 1957; replaced by the PB in October 1962.
  • Body style: four-door saloon from the factory. Estates were converted by Friary of Basingstoke and are rare.
  • Engines: 2,262cc overhead-valve straight six with a single Zenith carburettor, quoted at 78bhp by Classics World and HubNut and at 82.5bhp at 4,400rpm by Wikipedia (the difference is likely down to the rating method). From August 1960, 2,651cc six with wedge-shaped combustion chambers, quoted at 95bhp.
  • Gearboxes: three-speed manual, all-synchromesh, column change, with hydraulic clutch. Overdrive was optional. Hydramatic automatic was offered from 1961.
  • Brakes: 9in Lockheed drums at launch; front discs optional from October 1961.
  • Production: Classic & Sports Car gives 81,841 for the 2.2-litre PA (1957 to 1960) and 91,923 for the 2.6-litre PASX Velox and PADX Cresta (1960 to 1962), consistent with Classics World's total of over 173,000. Wikipedia and Auto Express quote 81,841 as if it were the whole PA run, so be cautious.

Versions and changes to know

  • October 1957: PA Velox and Cresta launched with the 2.2-litre six, three-piece rear window and small grille.
  • August 1959: facelift with a larger grille and a one-piece wrap-around rear window replacing the three-piece type (Classic & Sports Car dates the rear window change to 1960). Friary estates were available from around this time.
  • August 1960: 2,651cc engine, larger wheels allowing bigger brakes, and lower-geared steering. These cars are known as PASX (Velox) and PADX (Cresta).
  • 1961: Hydramatic automatic option; servo-assisted front disc brakes optional from October 1961, alongside the option of separate front seats and wood fascia trim.
  • 1962: final year, with the PB arriving in October. A 1962 Cresta should have the 2.6-litre engine and late trim; whether it has discs, overdrive or automatic depends on the options chosen when new.

What to look for

Bodywork and structure

  • Rust is the key issue, and body panels are hard to source. A badly rotten car is rarely worth taking on.
  • Check the seals and surrounding metal of the panoramic front and rear screens. Water leaking past failed seals rots the floorpans, door pillars and sills.
  • Look at the roof panel, the areas behind the headlamps, door skins and sills.
  • From underneath, examine the rear spring hanger rails and the metal around the steering box mountings. Rot in either place is hard to see and expensive to put right.
  • Check the front and rear valance corners, boot floor, side panels and spare wheel well, and lift the carpets to see the bases of the A, B and C pillars.
  • Use a magnet on wheelarches, sills and wing tops, and be wary of patch repairs that trap moisture.
  • Missing chrome, badges and trim are hard to replace, so make sure all the brightwork is present.

Engine

  • The six is tough and, properly serviced, can cover high mileages between rebuilds. A small oil leak is common.
  • With the engine running, remove the oil filler cap and raise the revs slightly. Heavy fumes or blue smoke suggest worn bores or valve guides.
  • Listen for knocking. Ask whether the cylinder head has been converted for unleaded fuel; Auto Express says many have.
  • Starter solenoids can stick, but are cheap to recondition.

Gearbox and drivetrain

  • A column change that is hard to select usually points to worn bushes in the linkage between lever and gearbox.
  • Jumping out of gear or excessive noise indicate gearbox wear.
  • Check the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks. A slipping clutch means engine removal to replace the plate.
  • If overdrive is fitted, ask whether it engages on second and third. Hydramatic cars are rare and their parts very hard to find.

Suspension, steering and brakes

  • Inspect the mounting points for the main suspension components; corrosion there is an MOT failure.
  • Suspension parts remain available. Perished bushes and tired dampers affect ride and handling; polyurethane bushes stiffen the feel.
  • Drum-braked cars need planning ahead. Many have been converted to front discs, so note whether discs are original equipment or a later conversion.
  • Handbrake shoes can bind after long storage.
  • Wheels from later cars fitted to earlier ones alter gearing and speedometer accuracy.

Electrics and interior

  • Electrics are simple; most faults come from damaged wiring or worn switches. Test lights, indicators, wipers and the heater.
  • Much of the interior metalwork is painted body colour, and the last cars gained some wood veneer.
  • Seats, headlining, carpets and door cards can be retrimmed, but original trim components are hard to find, so a complete interior is a real plus.

Identity and paperwork

  • Check that the chassis prefix, V5C and engine number agree, particularly on a car described as a 2.6-litre Cresta.
  • Confirm whether options such as overdrive, automatic, disc brakes or separate seats were fitted at the factory or added later.
  • Many PAs have been modified; ask for details of any non-original parts.

Ownership today

Routine service parts such as plugs, points and condensers are readily available, and suspension parts can still be bought. Body panels and trim are the problem areas; Radford Panel Company is named by Classics World as a maker of some repair panels. The main UK club is the Vauxhall Cresta Club (vauxhallcrestaclub.co.uk (opens in a new tab)), which runs a parts section for members. The Vauxhall Drivers Club (vauxhalldriversclub.co.uk (opens in a new tab)) is also a useful source of advice.

Questions to ask before you bid

  • What structural repairs have been made, particularly to the sills, floors, pillars and spring hangers?
  • Have the front and rear screen seals been replaced, and is the car dry inside after rain?
  • Are the disc brakes, overdrive or automatic original equipment or later additions?
  • Has the engine been rebuilt or converted to run on unleaded fuel?
  • Is all the brightwork and trim present, and is any of it reproduction?

Sources

Help shape this guide

This is an independent guide written in the village, and what goes in next is partly up to you. Vote, send an idea, or both.

Which car buying guide should I write next?

An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.