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Volvo 940 (1990 to 1998)

By Jon Cosson · Last checked

An independent model review with what to look for and the questions to ask before you bid.

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Overview

The 940 arrived in autumn 1990 as the four-cylinder half of Volvo's new 900 series, with the six-cylinder 960 above it. It replaced the 740, and in truth it was a thorough reworking of that car: the same rear-wheel-drive platform and the same tough "redblock" four-cylinder engine family, with a new rear end, dashboard and seats. The saloon came first and the estate followed in 1991, and by the end it was the estate that sold best. Production ended in 1998.

It was built for safety and durability, and Volvo won road safety awards for features such as the three-point centre rear belt and an optional child booster seat in the rear armrest. Later cars added SIPS side impact protection and a driver's airbag.

To drive, a non-turbo 940 is steady and comfortable but can feel slow in such a heavy body. The turbocharged versions are a different proposition: strong mid-range pull that makes the big estate quick on the road, with a separate rear axle that keeps it predictable. The SE Turbo estate combines that engine with the better equipment levels, and the short-lived Sports Edition took the idea further. The reputation is for high-mileage reliability, provided the servicing has been kept up. Neglect, rot in hidden places and tired electrics are what catch buyers out.

Key facts

  • Years built: September 1990 to 1998. Estate from May 1991.
  • Body styles: four-door saloon and five-door estate.
  • Main UK petrol engines: 2.0 and 2.3 four-cylinders, eight-valve and some 16-valve; 2.3 turbo (B230FT, 165PS); 2.3 low-pressure turbo (B230FK, 135PS) from 1994. Some sources quote 170bhp for later full-pressure turbo cars.
  • Diesel: 2.4-litre six-cylinder, naturally aspirated and turbo, bought in from Volkswagen.
  • Manual gearboxes: M46 four-speed with overdrive, M47 five-speed, then the M90 five-speed. Wikipedia dates the M90 to 1995, while UK owners' forum posts put it from late 1993.
  • Automatics: Aisin-Warner AW70, AW71 and AW72 four-speeds. Some cars had the ZF 4HP22.
  • Suspension: MacPherson struts at the front; live rear axle on coil springs. Most estates have Nivomat self-levelling rear dampers. The SE saloon used a multi-link rear.
  • Production: 246,704 saloons and 231,677 estates, 478,381 in total, per the Volvo Owners' Club's production table.

Versions and changes to know

  • 1990: launch, trim levels initially including GL, later S, with SE, GLE and CD above.
  • 1991: estate introduced. 2.0 turbo shown in February 1991.
  • 1993 to 1995: the club highlights turbo engines from this period as having piston oil cooling and stronger bottom ends.
  • 1994: UK petrol range narrowed to 2.3 engines and the low-pressure turbo introduced.
  • 1995: the M90 manual was fitted across the range, according to Wikipedia, and the ZF automatic was dropped for petrol engines.
  • Sports Edition (around 1995 to 1996): a UK-market estate based on the turbo, with black leather, Galaxy alloys, lowered suspension and a tailgate spoiler. Parkers lists 190bhp for the manual and 165bhp for the automatic. That 190 figure matches Volvo's Turbo+ boost kit, which Wikipedia rates at 190PS. Accounts of its run and power differ, so check any car's history and specification carefully.
  • 1996: the S badge was dropped and trims revised; the club notes the full-pressure turbo being replaced by an updated unit.
  • To 1998: run-out models included the Classic, and in the UK the Torslanda estate and Celebration.

What to look for

Bodywork and structure

The Volvo Owners' Club lists the places where 900s rot, and many are hidden. Check the front chassis rails where the front suspension links attach, which can rot from the inside, and the box sections under the engine and gearbox. Look in the engine bay at the bulkhead seams and horizontal frame members, mainly on the passenger side. The wheel arch seam can lift and let water into the footwells, front or rear, so feel for damp carpets. Sills rot towards the front if drains block. Also look at the A-pillars behind the trim, the bottom of the door window frames, the sunroof surround, the windscreen pinch weld if the glass has been replaced, the boot side pockets and the tailgate around the latch.

Engine

The four-cylinders are durable when serviced. Check the service record, because irregular oil changes cause sludge. A smoky exhaust can mean worn turbo seals or valve stem seals. A blocked crankcase breather, or flame trap, can also push oil into the inlet and out of front seals, which is cheap to fix. On turbo cars check the coolant, boost and vacuum hoses, which harden with the heat. Some engines in the range are interference designs, so a recent cambelt change on paper is important.

Gearbox and drivetrain

On manual cars with overdrive, check the overdrive switches in and out. Automatics should change smoothly and the shift lock should release. The club regards the ZF 4HP22 as the problem automatic. Check the rear axle pinion seal for leaks. Owners report that turbo models have a self-locking differential, so ask whether it has been looked after.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Listen for knocks or groans from the front bushes. On estates, look at how the rear sits: Nivomat dampers are expensive, and many owners convert to standard dampers and springs. Check the power steering for leaks and the ABS warning light.

Electrics and interior

Test the heated seats, mirrors, central locking, sunroof, electric windows, cruise control and seat adjustment. The heater matrix is a known weak point, with damp carpets and a misting screen the signs. Air conditioning is often not working, and the aluminium pipes and condenser can corrode. Look under the bonnet for cracked insulation on the engine wiring loom. Door cards can pucker around the lock buttons. Check whether the speedometer has been replaced, which will be recorded in a well-kept service book.

Identity and paperwork

Check the VIN on the V5C against the car, and confirm trim and engine. The SE Turbo, Sports Edition and Classic labels are easy to fake with badges, so look for the correct engine, interior and wheels. A 1990s car is not old enough for the historic tax class or MOT exemption, so review the MOT history online for recurring advisories.

Ownership today

Mechanical parts remain widely available because the engines and running gear are shared with the 240 and 740. Trim, Sports Edition parts and some electrical items are harder to find. Independent Volvo specialists know these cars well. The main UK club is the Volvo Owners' Club: volvoclub.org.uk (opens in a new tab).

Questions to ask before you bid

  • Is there a stamped service history, and when were the cambelt and turbo hoses last renewed?
  • What rust work has been done to the front chassis rails, sills and wheel arches?
  • Is the rear suspension still on Nivomat dampers or converted?
  • Does the heater and air conditioning work, and are the footwells dry?
  • If sold as a Sports Edition or SE Turbo, what proves the specification?

Sources

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An independent guide from Thornton-le-Dale. Not connected with Mathewsons or the programme.